Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Yuksom - Gateway to Kanchenzonga

Yuksom, spread over a total area of 812.16 hectares (2,006.9 acres) situated at an average altitude of 1780 m was established in 1642 AD by Phuntsog Namgyal , the first Chogyal (temporal and religious king) of Sikkim, is a historical town in Geyzing subdivision of West Sikkim district in the Northeast Indian state of Sikkim. It was here that the first Chogyal was coroneted, after which the Namgyal Dynastic rule lasted for 333 years (1642 – 1975). The coronation site of the first monarch of Sikkim is known as the "Throne of Norbugang". The throne made of stones is even today considered sacred as is the footprint of Lhatsun Chenpo, which can be seen close to the throne.

Yuksom is situated at the head of Khangchenjunga National Park, the largest Protected Area in Sikkim, and is the starting point for the trekking trail to Mt. Khangchendzonga, trekking to Dzongri being the most popular. Yuksom and its hills was named in the past as Ney-Pemathang for its beautiful landscape and its bio-diverse forest cover in the hills consisting of broad-leaved oak, birch, maple, chestnut, magnolia, rhododendron, silver fir, ash and alder.

Yuksom literally means the “meeting place of the three learned monks” as it was founded by three monks who came from Tibet and selected Phuntsog Namgyal as the first King of Sikkim giving him the title Chogyal. 'Chogyal' means “Religious King” or “the king who rules with righteousness”. Yuksom literally means the “meeting place of the three learned monks” as it was founded by three monks who came from Tibet and selected Phuntsog Namgyal as the first King of Sikkim giving him the title Chogyal. 'Chogyal' means “Religious King” or “the king who rules with righteousness”.

It is believed that in year 1641, Lama Lutsum Chembo travelled from Tibet to Denjong (meaning hidden country) now known as Sikkim to propagate the Buddhist religion, later He was joined by two other lamas, Sempa Chembo and Rinzing Chembo. This trinity of the most revered Lamas belonged to the Kham district in Tibet. With their primary aim to perpetuate Tibetan hold on Sikkim and with a mission to propagate Buddhism in Sikkim, they assembled from different directions at Norbugang, which later came to be known as Yuksom. The area in Rathong chu valley at Narbugong was considered to be blessed by Guru Padma Sambhava (Guru Rim-bo-che).

The vision of Saint Padmasambhava (Guru Rim-bo-che) had predicted the essentiality of a fourth person for the purpose of establishment of Buddhism in Sikkim, accordingly the Lamas went in pursuit of the fourth person. As the three lamas represented three directions of North, South and West in Tibet and also according to legend, Guru Rinpoche, the 9th century Buddhist saint had also foretold that a Phuntsog from the east would be the next chogyal of Sikkim, the three lamas went in search of the chosen person in the eastern region. Near the present day Gangtok, they found a man churning milk. On seeing them, the man offered them some refreshments and gave them shelter. Impressed by his deeds, they realised that he was the chosen one. They also identified Phunstsog Namgyal's ancestral royal links with Tibet and accordingly decided that he is the right person to become the temporal and religious head of the region. They then brought him to Yuksom, where they crowned him at Norbugang near Yuksom as the temporal and religious king of Sikkim, with the title of “Chogyal”. The crowning took place on a pedestal set in stones, in a pine-covered hill, and he was anointed by sprinkling water from a sacred urn. At the age of 38 years of age, he was a fifth generation descendant of Guru Tashi, a 13th century prince from the Mi-nyak House in Kham in Eastern Tibet. Thereafter, the dynastic rule of Chogyals, propagation of the Buddhist religion and building of monasteries and chortens took firm roots in Sikkim which lasted for 333 years spread over the reign of 12 kings. Tibetan Mahayana Buddhism known as Vajrayana sect was introduced, which ultimately was recognized as the state religion of Sikkim.

After becoming the King, the first initiative the Phuntsog took was the conversion of the local Lepcha tribes to Buddhism . He the set about expanding his kingdom up to the Chumbi Valley in Tibet, parts of modern day Darjeeling in the south, and parts of eastern Nepal with the full support of the three lamas

Phuntsog made Yuksom as his capital and instituted the first centralised administration. The kingdom was divided into twelve Dzongs or districts under a Lepcha Dzongpon (governor) who in turn headed a council of twelve ministers. During his reign Buddhism was consolidated as the established religion in Sikkim. In 1670 he was succeeded by his son, Tensun Namgyal who shifted the capital to Rabdentse finishing the importance of Yuksom.

Yuksom is a small village with population of approx 2000 people. The Bhutias and the Nepalese constitute major communities in the village, with the Bhutia community being the dominant ethnic group. However, the service and the trading sectors are dominated by people from the plains

Dubdi Monastery
Established in 1701, Dubdi Monastery was the first monastery established soon after the consecration ceremony of the first Chogyal. Located on a hill top above Yuksom surrounded by verdant forest, it professes itself to be the oldest monastery in Sikkim. It can be approached by an hour of trekking negotiating steep slopes. It is also known as the Hermit's Cell after its reclusive founder Lhatsun Namkha Jigme.  

Phamrong Waterfalls :
This is the highest waterfall of West Sikkim is located between Yuksom and Gerethang . A gentle gradient footpath takes one to a viewpoint for a closer view of this mighty discharge of water for a magnificent view especially during monsoon when it is at its peak. 

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Pelling - The Land of Beautiful Views


Around 115 kms from Capital of Sikkim, Gangtok, and about 135 kms from Silliguri, 10 kms from district headquarters Gyakshing, at an altitude of 7200 feet, Lies the town of Pelling, now the second most popular tourist destination of Sikkim. The town in itself is not more than hotels, Guest houses , Shops and few residences lined up around the road, but it offers breathtaking view of Kanchenjunga and surrounding ranges including Koktang, Kumbhakarna, Rathong, Kabru, Dom,  Pandim, Zopuno, Shimbho, Narsing, Siniyalchu. Pelling is the closest you can get to view Mr Kanchenjunga without leaving the comfort of your hotels. Pelling is not only the base for the excursions in South Sikkim, but also gives you base to explore some of the more important monasteries of Sikkim. Pelling is connected to the towns of Jorethang, Kalimpong and Namchi .The nearest airport is Bagdogra Airport . Sikkimese is the most widely and commonly spoken language of Pelling, while most of the people are Buddhists. Other languages spoken are Nepali, Hindi and English .

The following are the excursions and sightseeing from Pelling.

Pemayangtse Monastery: Pemayangtse literally means 'Perfect Sublime Lotus' and is believed to represent the four plexus of Human Body, Pemayangtse Monastery was founded in 1705, belongs to the Nyingma-pa sect of Tibet Buddhism and controls all other monasteries of the sect. Pemyangtse Monastery is one of the oldest and most important monasteries of Sikkim. Located about 140 kms west of Gangtok, it was designed and founded by Lama Lhatsun Chempo, as a small Lhakhang, during the reign of Chodar Namgyal at Rabdentse was subsequently enlarged during the reign of the third Chogyal Chakdor Namgyal who was considered as Lhatsun Chenpo's third reincarnate, Jigme Pawo.

Chador was a very religious person and he had taken several initiatives for the spread of Buddhist religion in Sikkim, He had  even decreed that the second of every three sons of Bhutia family shall be ordained as monk of the Pemayangtse Monastery. The monks for this monastery are chosen from the Bhutias of Sikkim. The monastery was built for "pure monks" (ta-tshang) meaning "monks of pure Tibetan lineage", celibate and without any physical abnormality. This practice is still retained. Only the monks of Pemayangtse Monastery are entitled to the title "ta-tshang". The head lama of this monastery had the unique privilege of anointing the Chogyals of the erstwhile monarchy of Sikkim with holy water.

 The monastery is a three-storied building and houses a good collection of wall paintings and sculptures. The monastery, which overlooks the Rabdantse ruins, has well manicured gardens within its compound where the residential accommodation for the monks is also located. The first floor of the monastery has a notable collection of ancient Buddhist antique idols, scriptures as well as sculptures and decorated paintings notable amongst them is Padmasambahva’s eight incarnations in fierce form.  On the third floor of the monastery, there is a seven-tiered painted wooden model of the abode of Guru Rimpoche, known as "Sanghthokpalri" also spelt "Zandog-palri", complete with rainbows, angels and the whole panoply of Buddha and bodhisattva. This structure was constructed by Dungzin Rimpoche over a period of 5 years

Another characteristic feature seen in this monastery is the presence of  statues of Padmasambahva and his two consorts in the main prayer hall (1,500 square feet (140 m2) area),. The main statue of Padmasambahva (also known as Guru Rinpoche who revived Buddhism in Tibet and was also the propagator of Vajrayana or tantric form of Buddhism ) seen here is in his wrathful form as Dorje Bhurpa Vjarakila with multiple heads and arms. The Dukhang or Lakhang, the main temple has colourfully painted doors and windows and depict Tibetan designs

In January/ February every year, a religious dance called 'Cham' is performed in Pemayangtse.

Sang-Choling Monastery
This monastery is situated on a ridge on the top of the mountain above Pelling facing the Pemayangtse Monastery about 03 kms from the town of Pelling. Built in 1697 A.D., Sanga Cholling is considered to be second oldest monastery of the State. Sangachoeling means 'the island of esoteric teaching'. This gompa is designed by  Lhatsun Chenpo and is highly venerated among the Nyingmapa. Gutted by fire, it has been rebuilt and houses some of the original clay statues.

The road  to monastery is not motorable and one needs to take a 45 minutes walk through a quite path to reach the monastery. But once you reach at the monastery, you will be rewarded by great views of Kanchenjunga and Pelling town .

Darap Cherny Village
Darap Village is located about 6 kilometers from Pelling on the way to Yuksam.  Darap Village is inhabited mainly by People from Limboo Community apart from a small number of families from mixed communities like Bhutias, Chettris, Tamangs, Rais, Gurungs and Lepchas. The area is a gentle valley unlike other locations in west. Culturally and traditionally rich, Darap appears photogenic when bough wheat farms bear flowers and harvest takes place. .

Rabdantsey Ruins:

Rabdantse was the second capital of the erstwhile kingdom of Sikkim after Yuksam and till the year 1814 A.D., the king of Sikkim had ruled the state from this place. Today, the Rabdentse ruins lie hidden from the main road. It is at a walking distance from Pelling and the Pemayangtse monastery and can be approached by following a footpath which branches off the main road.  Khecheolpari Tso  ( Kecheopalri Tso)
Khechepalri means – mountain of blissful heaven. Kecheolpari lake is located about 27 kms from Pelling and accessible through a motorable road is a popular tourist point. It is one of the sacred lakes of Sikkim. Hidden in the rich forest cover, It is believed that birds do not permit even a single leaf to float on the Khecheopalri lake surface.Legend has it that the place where the lake is located was once a grazing ground scattered around  with stinging nettle. Native Lepchas used the bark of the nettle for a number of purposes. One day a Lepcha couple while peeling the bark of the nettle  saw a pair of conch shells coming through the air and entering into the ground. Soon after the earth beneath shook violently and spring of water came ou engulfing the entire ground turning it into a huge lake. As per Nesol text, the lake is recognised as the abode of Tshomen Gyalmo, the chief protecting nymph of dharma as blessed by goddess Tara. Native people believe that the shape of the lake resembles the footprint of goddess Tara.

The sacred lake lies in a depression surrounded by prayer flags and forested hills. By the lakeshore is the small Lepcha village of Tsojo, and about 1.5km above the lake is the Khecheoplari Gompa can also be visited.

The place is popular among trekkers offering various trekking options. The most popular is the walking trail from Pelling to Khecheolpari (5 hours). It is also possible to trek to Yuksom from Khecheolpari (4 hours).

Most tourists visit Khecheolpari as part of the full day sightseeing of Pelling, with the tour starting at Pelling and moving through Darap Village and Rimbi falls reaching at Khecheopalri. The lake can also be reached through Yuksom via Singshore bridge and Kanchenjunga falls.

Khangchendzonga Waterfalls
An hour and a half drive from Pelling, On way to Yuksom, one comes across Khangchendzonga twin Water Falls. It is an amazing sight of breathtaking beauty of a wild torrent of water cascading down granite rocks and is a place not to be missed by the tourists

Friday, October 26, 2012

Gangtok - A base for Great Excursions



Gangtok, is the beautiful capital of the beautiful state of Sikkim. It offers travellers various sites, gardens and monasteries to visit within the city itself, but apart from the same, it gives a lot of opportunities for great excursions around the various parts of Sikkim. It an important circuit for exploring west and North Sikkim including visits to Pelling, Yuksom, Yumthang and Lachen or Lachung, all easily accessible from Gangtok

The following are the places which can be explored by short excursions from Gangtok.

Changu Lake Or Tsomgo Lake

Driving a distance of 38 kms through a winding road amongst rugged mountain terrain and sharp cliffs, situated at an altitude of 12400 feet, you reach Changu Lake or Tsomgo Lake, which is a sight to behold. Tsomgo literally meaning Source of the Water in Bhutia language, the lake derives its water from melting of the snow from the surrounding snow clad mountains and its glaciers. The lake looks different in different seasons with the color of water changing. In winter it is a picture of white screen with the top crust of the Lake being frozen, wile in the spring, the profusion of flowers in the bloom adds a riot of the colors on the surface of the lake. Many myths and legends are associated with the lake and is revered by the Sikkimese as sacred. It is believed that in olden times, Buddhist monks would study the colour of the water of the lake to forecast the future.The lake is also of special significance for the Jhakris [faith healers] of Sikkim who congregate here annually on Guru Purnima, which coincides with the festival of Raksha Bandhan, from all over the state to offer prayers.For the tourist the visit to the lake is an mesmerizing experience. Rides on colourfully decorated yaks and mules are available at the lake site, apart from presence of a variety of eating stalls serving snacks and beverages. Snowboots and gumboots are available on hire.
Tsomgo lake is open for both Indian and foreign nationals, however foreign visitors cannot travel alone, they have to be in a group of two or more and need prior visitors permit to be obtained.

Baba Mandir
This temple is particulary famous amongst the India Visitors. Baba Mandir lies on the road between the Nathula and the Jelepla Pass is believed to have a wish fulfilling powers and is visited by hundreds of people each day. The origin of temple and the legends and myths surrounding it are not very old, About 40 years back, Sepoy Harbhajan Singh of the 23rd Punjab Regiment went missing while leading a pack of mules from his battalion stationed at Tukla to Deng Dhukla, both remote areas located in East Sikkim. A manhunt was launched to locate him by the army and it took three days to locate his  body. It is believed that he himself directed the soldiers to the site of his body.  Soon after, soldiers in the regiment started reporting that Baba is appearing in their dreams and directing them to build a shrine in his memory. Accordingly a Samadhi was raised in his memory where He is worshipped as a saint who grants boons and guards the lives of soldiers posted along the border.. His believers say that even today Baba visits every night, puts on his uniform and does his rounds.Each year in September Baba takes his annual holiday when he travels back to Kapurthala, his hometown. People gather in large numbers and line the route that Baba used to take to offer flowers and prayers. A berth on a train is reserved in his name and two orderlies accompany him on the journey.
Baba Mandir is open for Indian Nationals only, The foreign nationals are not allowed to visit Baba Mandir.

Seven Sisters Waterfalls
A beutiful scene of water falling from the hill top creating a beautiul waterfall. It is located 32 kms away from Gangtok on the National Highway leading to North Sikkim. A place must visit for the nature lover and shutterbugs.

Saramsa Garden
Established and maintained by the Department of Forests, lying about 14kms from Gangtok, Saramsa Garden is an excellent recreation, leisure and picnic spot. A musical fountain and a swimming pool have been recently added.. The Garden was the venue for the International Flori Show 2008. It also have a beautiful Convention Center for Meetings, Incentives, Conventions and Exhibitions (MICE) with a sitting capacity of 500 and all modern facilities. Meetings and Exhibitions can be held here in an eco-friendly peaceful environment.

Phodang Monastery
Located approx 38kms from city of Gangtok, Phhodang Monastery is one of the six major monasteries of Sikkim, belonging to the Kagyut Order.The Phodong Monastery was built in the 18th century by Chogyal Gyurmed Namgyal. Although the original monastery has been rebuilt , the old mural paintings and frescoes were preserved during reconstruction. An annual folk dance festival called Chaam is celebrated  on the 28th and 29th day of the tenth month of the Tibetan calendar. Travelling further beyond the Phodang Monastery, after a distance of 04 kms , you can alsi visit  the recently renovated Labrang Monastery, unique in-its architectural design.Between Phodong and Labrang Monastery are the ruins of the third capital of Sikkim, Tumlong

Phensang Monastery :
Situated on the gentle slope stretching from Kabi to Phodong on one of the best landscapes in the region, The Phensang Monastery, under the Nyingmapa Buddhist Order, was built in 1721 during the time of ]igmee Pawo. It was gutted by a fire in 1947 and rebuilt in 1948 through the efforts of the lamas. The annual festival of Chaam is performed on the 28th and 29th days of the tenth month of Lunar Calendar (Tibetan Calendar).

Pal Zurmang Kagyud Monastery ( Lingdum)
Located at Lingdum, East Sikkim is at a distance of about 20 kms from Gangtok, Pal Zurmang Kagyud Monastery is a place worth visiting for its religious and exquisite architecture and serene atmosphere . The present Gharwang Rimpoche is the 12th Successive incarnation of the glorious emanation of Zurmang Gharwang.

Menmecho Lake
Located at an altitude of 13000 feet, about a  distance of 64 kms from Gangtok via Sherathang (6 kms short of famous Nathula Pass) one comes across a marvellous snow fed water body called Menmecho Lake .It is surrounded by lush green forest and typical reddish alpine grass cover and the source of the river Rangpochu, it is larger in size than Tsomgo lake and it is full of trout fish. Amongst its calm and quiet atmosphere and rare beauty, one can spend hours in splendid isolation.

Gonjang Monastery:
Located  near Tashi View Point, Gonjang Monastery was established in the year 1981. The founder H.E. Tingkye Gonjang Rimpoche  was recognised as an incarnation of Yolmo Terton Ngakchang Shakya Zangpo, a 15th century Nyingmapa Terton. The monastery follows Jangter tradition of Nyingmapa school of Tibeten Buddhism.

Bakthang :
Located 20 minutes drive from Gangtok along the 31 A National Highway leading to North Sikkim, Bakthang Water Falls, .originates from Ratey Chu, the main water source of Gangtok area. Its an interesting site to visit for Shutterbergs and people in love of nature.

Aritar Lake
For trekkers and Nature Lovers, Aritar Lake (Ghati-Tso) near Rhenock, about 3 hours drive from Gangtok, is worth visiting. If you are  interested in spending a night or two in the peaceful environment, trekker's huts, lodges and a private resort are available. Apart from the trekking, you can indulge in boating, visiting and exploring the lifestyle of villagers and also visit to the Lingsay Monastery and a Manghim. A short trek in and around Aritar is a thrilling experience. You can also have an enthralling experience of spending a night in an old British built Bunglow of 1895 located half km below the lake

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Gangtok -The heart of Sikkim



Gangtok,the present capital of Indian State of Sikkim, lies at an altitude of 5800 feet ( 1800mts) amongst some of the higher range of Himalayan.The earliest records date from the construction of the hermitic Gangtok monastery in 1716. Gangtok, Roughly meaning "Mountain Top" shot in prominence on the Map, especially for Buddhist, in 1840, when Enchey Monastery was built here. Its prominence further rose when in 1894, the ruling Sikkimese Chogyal, Thutob Namgya, shifted his capital to Gangtok from Tumlong.New Palaces and Government Buildings were built which added to the reputation and beauty of Gangtok. Later it developed as a major stopover for traders on the trade route from Lhasa in Tibet to Kolkata and other Indian cities. When India won independence in 1947, from British rule, Sikkim chose to remain as an Independent state under the king, but in 1975, fearing a takeover by China, who had already annexed Tibet, it merged with India to become its 22nd state with Gangtok its 22nd state capital.

Since then Sikkim in general and Gangtok in particular have grown to become a bustling tourist destination, particularly famous between he honeymooners and travelers from adjoining state of West Bengal and is the centre stage of tourism in Sikkim, India. Its moderate temperature (ranging from 4 degrees to 25 degrees) through out the year makes the weather good to travel. However beginning end of June and till September, heavy rainfall lashes the area causing many a landslides making the weather of Sikkim a bit harsh ,but it is also the time when the lush green vegetation and the playing of clouds with sun, creating a vibrant play of shadows and light, leaves one mesmerized by the sheer beauty of the place.The city lies towards one side of the hill, flanked by two streams in east and west, namely Roro Chu and Ranikhola. The two rivers divide natural drainage into two parts, the eastern and western parts. Both the streams then meet the Ranipul and flow south as the main Ranikhola before joining the River Teesta at Singtam.The city is surrounded by densely forested regions consisting of temperate, decidous forests of trees like poplar, birch , oak and elm apart from evergreen confierous tree of the wst alpine zone. Orchids are common apart from other flowers like sunflower, marigold and poinsetta, which bloom around the city. Some of the rarest form of Orchids are found here.

Gangtok has a population of around 01 lakh people comprising of ethnic groups such as Indian Nepalis, Lepchas which are native to the land, Bhutias and Tibetans. It also have a sizable immigrant population of Marwaris ( who owns most of the shops), Biharis (engaged mostly in blue collar jobs) and Bengalis. Hinduism and Buddhism are the two most popular religions, but Gangtok too have a sizeable population of Christian and small minority of Muslims. English and Hindi are official language of Sikkim, apart from the above, Bhutla, Tibetan and Lepcha are also spoken widely.

Sikkim in itself is beautiful state blessed with beautiful valleys, mountain tops and lakes. Gangtok makes the perfect base for exploring Sikkim. Gangtok in itself have so much to offer to visit, that you require more than a couple of days to explore the same and it is one of the pivotal of Sikkim Tourism. Some of the places worth visiting Gangtok are mentioned below:

Gangtok - The City - MG Marg is country's first litter and spit free zone, with a ban on any kind of vehicular movement. It offers various shopping establishment to shop, various benches to sit alongside the road and Titanic Park - a beautiful park to picnic. A birds eye view of Gangtok city can be had through a ride on Bicable Zig Back ropeway from Deorali to Tashiling secretariat. Costing INR 30 and about 07 minutes, it gives a great view of Kanchendzonga Range and an overview of the Gangtok town below.

The Rumtek Monastery : The Rumtek monastery is a replica of the Tsurphu monastery of Kargyupa sect in Kham region of Tibet .It was founded in 1740 during the reign of the fourth Chogyal in the East District.After Chinese aggression and control over Tibet in 1960's, His Holiness the Gyalwa Karmapa, the 16th incarnate of the Gyalwa Karmapa of Tibet came to Rumtek with a number of follower monks to seek refuge. The then Chogyal gifted him a large piece of land at Rumtek village to build a monastery and also develop a centre for religious studies.Accordingly the four storeyed building was built, it later became the biggest monastery of Sikkim.

The monastery has a special prayer hall, very impressive murals and thanka paintings and 1001 miniature golden images of Lord Buddha. It has a religious centre by the name of Dharma Chakra Centre and a big residential-cum prayer hall, apart froman impressive library and special rooms for the high ranking incarnate Lamas.Behind the main monastery is an extremely impressive and elaborately decorated Karma Nalanda Institute of Buddhist Studies, wherein students from all over the world are enrolled. There is also a small hall having a beautiful jewel studded Chorten known as the Golden Stupa, which contains the ashes and remains of His Holiness, the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa.

Do Drul Chorten : The Do-Drul Chorten or Stupa was built in 1945 by the Venerable Trullshi Rimpoche, head of the Nyingma order of Tibeten Buddhism. Inside the stupa, there are complete mandala set of Dorjee phurba (Vajra Kilaya), a set of Kang Gyur relic (Holy Book), complete 'Zung' (mantras) and other religious objects. Around the Chorten, there are 108 Mani Lhakor (Prayer Wheels), which are turned by devout Buddhists while chanting 'Om Mane Padme Hum' (O Jewel in the Lotus) to invoke the Bodhisattva. It is surrounded by Chorten Lakhang and Guru Lakhang, where there are two huge statues of Guru Padmasambhava

Namgyal Research Institute of Tibetology : Namgyal Research Institute of Tibetology is one of the most prestigious research institute of its kind in the world, It is a treasure of vast collection of rare Lepcha, Tibetan and Sanskrit manuscripts, statues and rare Thankas (colourful tapestries used in Buddhist liturgy). Apart from an attractive museum, it has over 200 Buddhist icons and other prized objects of art. Established in 1958 to promote serious study and research on Buddhism, it is only next to an institute in Tibet in its collections.Today it is renowned world wide centre for study of Buddhist philosophy and religion.

Enchey Monastery: Enchey monastery is the seat of the Nyingma Order and city's oldest monastery . The two-hundred year old baroque monastery houses images of gods, goddesses, and other religious artifacts. The Enchey monastery literally means the solitary temple. In the month of January, the Chaam, or masked dance, is performed with great fanfare and is an event to visit.

Tashi View Point : Only 8 kms from Gangtok, situated along the North Sikkim Highway, it is from this point one can get a breath taking view of Mt. Khangchendzonga, one of the most graceful peaks in the world. An Observatory Tower, Cafeteria and Public amenities are present for the comfort of the travellers. Ideal time to visit is early in the morning, when the views are most spectacular. One can also catch a glimpse of the Phodang and Labrang monasteries on the opposite hill. The park just above the View Point gives you opportunity for a little picnic.

Tashiding Monastery (Tashi Ling Monastery) :
Constructed on top of a heart shaped hill with the back drop of the sacred Mt. Khangchendzonga, Tashiding Monastery was built in the 18th Century AD by Ngadak Sempa Chempo, one of the three Lamas who had performed the consecration ceremony of the first Chogyal.According to Buddhist scriptures, in 08th century AD, Guru Padmasambhava, blessed the sacred land of Sikkim in the 8th century AD from this spot. Tashiding is also famous for the most holy Chorten known as 'Thong-WaRang-Dol' literally meaning 'Saviours by mere sight'. It is believed that just by beholding the pot; it is supposed to wash away all the sins of the devotees. Another important feature is the sacred water festival (Bumchu) held every year, on 14th and 15th day of the first Lunar month, the Bhumchu Ceremony is organised with devotees coming from far and near to get the blessing of the holy water. The sacred holy water is officially sealed for safety by the lamas of the Monastery and taken out once a year on an auspicious occasion, only to be put back with some fresh additions. The Pot Have never got dried for the Past 300 years

Hanuman Tonk : Situated at an altitude of 7200 feet, 09 kms uphill of Gangtok on a calm and quiet hilltop, this temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman is popularly known as a wish filling temple. It is currently maintained by the resident units of Indian Army with the contribution from Local People.

The Himalayan Zoological Park: The Himalayan Zoological Park exhibits the Himalayan Fauna in their natural habitats. The zoo features the Himalayan Black Bear, The Barking Deer, The snow Leopard, The Leopard Cat, Tibetan Wolf, Masked Palm Civet, Red Pandas and the Spotted deer amongst many others.

Orchid Sanctuary: The Orchid Sanctuary is famous for its rare and extensive collection of orchids. The sanctuary’s collection also varies depending on the seasons, still the wide spread orchid sanctuary has almost 454 species of orchid found in Sikkim.

Tsuk La Khang : Tsuk La Khang is a depository of a large collection of scriptures and is the principal place of worship and assembly for the local Buddhists. The Tsuk la Khang is a beautiful and impressive building with mural covered interior, lavishly decorated altars or images of Buddha, bodhisattvas and Tantric deities and fine works of woodcarving. The Tsuk la Khang remains open for the general public and tourists during Losar, the famous dance festival.

How To Reach Gangtok : Gangtok, Sikkim is well Connected to rest of India through air, road and rail. The nearest airport to Gangtok is Bagdogra, Gangtok to Bagdogra is about 3-4 hrs Drive from Gangtok. Bagdogra in turn is connected with direct flights To Delhi, Kolkata and Guwahati. The nearest Railway Station, some three hours drive from Gangtok., is New Jalpaiguri, which is further connected to Delhi, Kolkata and Guwahati.

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Nathdwara - The abode of Lord Shrinathji



Nathdwara - literally meaning Doors to the abode of owner of the world, Lord Shrinathji. Nathdwara is a little explored Gem as a cultural destination, although it is famous religious must visit destination for the followers of Vaishnavite sect. Located about 48 kms from the city of Lake ,Udaipur, on the right bank of Banas River, Nathdwara is famous for the temple of Lord Krishna, in the form of Srinathji.

Nathdwara, as a city and centre of the religious importance for the followers of Lord Krishna, came into existence in 17th century. It is believed that during the oppressive Rule of Mughal King Aurangzeb, who was hell bent on destroying all Hindu Temples, to protect the Idol of Lord Srinathji, which was worshipped at Govardhan Hill near the Pious city of Vrindavan - the play ground of Lord Krishna, it was decided to shift the idol further south. First it was moved to Agra, from where after six months waiting, it was decided to move it further south. While being carried through the state of Rajasthan on a Bullock Cart, as it reached the spot at village Sihad or Sinhad, the wheels of bullock cart in which the idol was being transported sank axle-deep in mud. Even after various efforts it could not be moved any farther. The accompanying priests inferred that this particular place is the Lord's chosen spot to stay at and accordingly, a temple was built there under the rule and protection of the then Maharana Raj Singh of Mewar. Since then it is a significant Vaishnavite Shrine especially for the Pushti Marg OR Vallabh Sampradaya also known as Shuddha Advaita. Vallabh Sampraday was founded by Vallabh Acharya, who is revered mainly by people of Gujarat and Rajasthan. Vitthal Nathji son of Vallabhacharya was the fist to institutionalize the worship of Shrinathji at Nathdwara.

The idol of Shrinathji depicts a 14th century, 7-year old infant  incarnation of Krishna. Legend is that in 1409 AD, near Govardhan Hill on Mathura an image of lord Shrinathji, the mountain lifting form of Krishna, was discovered when a cow worshiped the lord with offerings of milk. Lord Shrinathji symbolizes a form of Lord Krishna, when he lifted the 'Govardhana' (a hill). In this large Blackstone idol, the lord is revealed with his left hand raised and the right is bunged in a fist.  Images of two cows, a snake, a lion, two peacocks and a parrot by the god's head are imprinted on the idol. The idol is treated like a living deity by the priest and they tend to the lord with daily normal function like bathing- dressing meals called "prasad" and the resting times in regular intervals. The idol in itself is decorated with  fine intricately woven shaneels & silk cloth with real original zari and shredded work done upon them along , tones of real jewelers, which are of antique value. The view of the idol (you get to see it only after the parda (curtain) is removed) is a spectacular sight that is simply mesmerizing and dazzling.

The structure of this temple is simple, but the aesthetic appeal of this temple, the religious atmosphere , especially during the Aarti and Shringar when formal prayers with vedic hymns are offered with diya,incense sticks, flowers, fruit and other offerings, while at the background the devotional songs of the demand are sung with local instruments according to the demand of the time and occasion. The festivals of Holi, Diwali and Janmashtmi are celebrated with full gusto, with the idol being specially decorated. A large number of believers visit Nathdwara during this period. Another major festival to be celebrated is  Annakutta ( a festival which marks the occasion of Lord Krishna lifting Goverdhan ( Govardhan) Hill on his little finger).

The temple authorities have about 500 cows and among them; one is regarded as Shrinathji's cow. It is considered that this cow has come from the pedigree that served the lord for centuries. The Temple does not allow entry to foreigners, but the Indian cultural aura can be felt by just visiting the vicinity of the temple.

Shrinathji Temple is not the only thing which Nathdwara had to offer. This small city,is also famous for its 'pichhwai' paintings, handmade terracotta, ivory articles, milk-made sweets and haveli Music. Pichwai Paintings, are a form of paintings on cloth from the school of Nathdwara of Mewar style paintings. The centre of theme for all Pichwai Paintings is Lord Krishna and the incident related to his life. Here Lord Krishna is always depicted in the form of Shrinathji, his childhood incarnation carrying Govardhan Hill on his little finger. Profound use of Gold Color, the image of Krishna with large eyes, broad nose and a heavy body, similar to the features on the idol of Shrinathji is the aspect which separates Pichwai Paintings from others. Pichwai paintings are works of art that are used to adorn the walls of temples, behind the idol. First a rough sketch is made on the starched clothes and natural colors are then filled in the spaces. Traditionally natural colours and brushes made of horse, goat or squirrel hair were used, but now faster and less expensive material have replaced them. The use of pure gold in the paintings adds to their value and charm. For one painting, it may take 3-4 days to just prepare colour from pure gold.Apart From Pichwai Paintings, the artist also produce paintings on the paper, but the predominant theme is Lord Krishna.

Apart from the Pichwai Paintings, it is also famous for classical form of singing, often referred to as Haveli Gharana whose most famous exponent is Pandit Jasraj. Haveli Sangeet is Vaishnava temple music practiced by the 'Pushti Margi Sampradaya.' Nathadwara is the main seat of the Vaishnava devotional cult which created a rich historical tradition of temple-based music. 'Haveli' here is referred to a palace that the deity chooses to live in. If compared to Dhrupad, Haveli Sangeet, as it is known in Rajasthan, Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh, claimed superior resilience as it claimed that Lord Krishna himself was the very audience for its performances. In this school of music every activity revolves around Lord Krishna  and is sung in the form of Kirtans, Bhajans, Samaj Gayan and Bhava Nirtya. It incorporates a fusion of classical and folk music,but the dominant style of singing is still Dhrupad and Dhammar. The temples of Radha Vallabh at Vrindaban, Krishna at Nandgaon, Shri Radha Rani at Barsana, and Sri Nathji at Nathdwara all reverberate with Haveli Sangeet

Nathdwara can be reached by an hour of scenic drive from Udaipur, which further is connected with all major cities in India through Rail, Road and Air. 


Monday, October 22, 2012

Agrasen ki Baoli, Delhi


Delhi is a historical city, with the present day city of Delhi, believed to be the amalgamation of seven different cities built across different centuries including shahjehanabad, Indraprastha, Tughlakabad etc. Each city have their own sets of heritage monuments telling a story of their own and worth a visit. This gives Delhi a multiude of visitable monuments, some of which have become more common, yet some others are left neglected, non publicused and non visited. Agrasen Ki Baoli (also known as  Ugrasen Ki Baoli or Agarsen ki Baoli), believed to be rebuilt in 14the century, is one of the lesser known monuments.

Agrasen Ki Baoli, is nestled among highrise buildings of modern India and is unseen and unheard of many of the people living or working in the vicinity. What used to be lifeline for the water supply in scorching heats of summer once, lies dilapidated and ignored and dried up like other stepwells in India mainly due to the fact that dependence on wells to tap water have evaporated due to the invent of submersible pumps and piped supply, hence no boady need it. Now designated a protected monument by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act of 1958, efforts are being made to rejuvenate it and restore it to its prime glory.

Who built Agrasen Ki Baoli is still a mystery, some stating its origin to Mahraja Agrasen of Mahabharata Epic Period, some believe it was built by a wealthy agarwal family in 14th century. Another theory is that it was built by a wealthy and influential Agrawal merchant of Delhi named Nattal Sahu who was also a minister in the court of King Anang Pal III. The theory is based on inferences taken from Pasanahacariu, The work of Agrawal Poet named Vibudh Shridhar , who wrote it in 1132 AD.

Built over three visible stories,  with some parts completely submerged in the water, It is about 60 mts in length and about 15 mts wide and have around 103 steps.Each story or level is lined with the arched niches, Chambers and pasageways on the both sides. The arches shows a distinct influence of islamic architecture and hence it is believed to be rebuilt in 14th century Tughlaq Era.Tughlaq era influence can also be judged from the presence of a small mosque in the vicinity of the baoli. The walls of this step well is devoid of any sculpture work unlike its more famous cousins, Pipvav ki Baori or step well at Abhaneri. As you take steps down towards the water, the baoli or step  well shrinks in width, you will witness a distinct coolness of the temperature and calmness descending in you. You will hear gurgling sounds of hundred of pigeons and whooshing sounds of wind downstairs, in night the descent an atmosphere might scare you.

Agrasen ki Baoli or the stepwell is Situated on the Hailey road, a 10 minutes walk from the N block of Connaught Place, Delhi, Agrasen Ki baoli is open from morning 0900 hrs till evening 1700 hrs,and the entry to the baoli is free.

You can also visit  the oldest existing Baoli in Delhi, the Anangtal Baoli, located in Mehruli. The Anangtal Baoli is considered to be older than the present structure of Agrasen ki Baoli (stepwell).Also known as Yoginipura , Anangal stepwell is believed to built in the 10th century by the Rajput King Anang Pal II, belonging to the Tomar Dynasty.Anang Tal literally means reservoir of Anang.


Sunday, October 21, 2012

Eklingji and Nagda Temples

India is a country of Religion and culture. Every city in India is resplendent with Temples, Churches and mosques, which are not only a centre of religious faith but some of whom are architecturally rich and never stops in amazing one to wonder the kind of effort and inventiveness, it would have taken to build such marvelous structures with so much of limited means.The period of seventh to the tenth of century was particularly important for the Hindu temple of architecture, one some of the most beautifully sculpted temples were built in India.

Present day Udaipur region too got a fair share of such temple architecture with two beautiful temple complexes being built at Eklingji and Nagda. While there are smaller and more modern temples dedicated to Lord Shiva ( Siva) in Rajasthan, the most renowned and the oldest of them all is at Kailashpuri, near Udaipur, known as Eklingji. Eklingji got its name from the unique form of Lord Shiva as a black stone four headed god.

Eklingji Temple was built in 734 AD Mewar King Bappa Rawal at Kailashpuri ( Udaipur as a city was non existent at that point of time), Eklingji being the ruling deity of Sisodia Family of Kings who ruled Mewar Region then. Over the years additions were made and repair work carried out ( to repair the lost part, destroyed by Muslim invaders). It is now a 108 temple complex, with the main temple being dedicated to Lord Eklingji. The Eklingji temple encompasses an area of about 2500 sq. feet and is about 65 feet in height.
All temples in the complex are made of marble and granite and the main temple has an enormous double-storied, elaborately pillared hall or "mandap" under a vast pyramidal roof, with a four-faced image of Lord Shiva in black marble.  Lord Shiva is prayed in the form of Eklingji, having four faces. The four faces of the statue, depicts four Gods believed to Lord Shiva in his four forms. In the east is Surya (sun), in the west is Brahma, in the north is Vishnu and in the south is Rudra. In the center of these images is the Shivlinga, encircled by a silver snake.  The hall is embellished with a beautiful silver structure of Nandi, besides this there are two more Nandi idols in the temple, one made of black stone and the other of brass metal. 

The main temple is surrounded with other smaller temples dedicated to other different Hindu Gods including Goddess Parvati ( wife of Lord Shiva), Lord Ganesha and Lord Kartikeya ( Son's of Lord Shiva). Other temples are dedicated to Goddess Saraswati ( goddess of knowledge) and Goddess Yamuna.. The temple complex is in itself surrounded by the Rocky mountains giving it natural walls.  

Monday is the day dedicated to Lord Shiva and hence a lot of local people visit Eklingji on this day. The King of Mewar too visits Eklingji every Monday evening to pray. Mahashivratri is a great occassion for Eklingji Temple. It is celebrated with great pomp and Lord Shiva is decorated with ornaments on this day. It is considered auspicious to pray on this day. 

Just 01 kms from the Elingji Temple, another set of temples exits known as Nagda Temple. In the 6th century, Nagda was found by Nagaditya, the fourth Mewar King. Initially known as Nagahrida and the capital of Mewar, Nagda is located besides Bagela Lake about 23 kms in the north-west of Udaipur on the way to Nathdwara. Nagda comprises many small and big temples, but the main attraction is gained by its 'Sas-Bahu' temple. 

The term 'Sas-Bahu' suggests 'Mother-in-law and Daughter-in-law' respectively. The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and comprises two structures, one made by a mother-in-law and another, made by a daughter-in-law. The main entrance to the temples is through a door that has carved lintels and a multi-lobed arch in its middle. Both the temple structures are laid according to same plan having an altar, a mandapa (columned prayer hall) with projections and a porch.

The temple of Sas is comparatively larger than that of the Bahu. The 'Bahu' temple has an octagonal ceiling, adorned with beautifully carved eight intricate female figures. The 'Sas' temple has a torana (archway) in its front where, it is believed that the image of the Lord Vishnu was swung along with hymns in the praise of lord on ceremonial occasions. Both the temples are constructed on a common platform facing towards the east direction with beautiful carvings at the time displaying Gujarat style of sculpture.

The delicate carvings are acknowledged to be imbibed from the incidents of 'Ramayana' (the Indian epic).  The sculptures are made in two steps, one encircling the other. On the first step, images of Lord Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu are carved and on the other, there are images of Rama, Balarama and Parashurama.

Another temple that is a must visit is the Jain temple. Dedicated to the Jain Saint Shanti Nath, the temple is said to have been built during the rule of Rana Kumbha. The temple has a strange idol due to which the temple got its name ('Adbhut' means strange). This 09 feet high strange idol is an attraction for people. These temples were destroyed by the foreign invaders to a large extent, still  their exceptional artistic architecture is preserved.

Another striking part of the temple complex is that,most of the temples in the complex does not have any idol of any deity. In between Nagda and Eklingji, there is Patal Maheshwar temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.The temple remains 06 months submerged in the water, and for the period it is above the water, it displays beautiful architecture.

Eklingji and Nagda can be reached through a picturesque drive from Udaipur amongst some of the most beautiful hillock. It is just 22 kms 01 hrs drive from Udaipur

Tip to travel: If you are short on time, avoid travelling to Eklingji on Monday, as a lot of local visit to the temple on this day, it being.an auspicious day, dedicated to Lord Shiva - the presiding deity.