Amritsar - The City of Golden Temples

AMRITSAR

Amritsar literally meaning “Pool of Nectar”, historically also known as Ramdaspur and colloquially as Ambarsar, derives its name from Amrit Sarovar, the holy tank that surrounds the fabulous Golden Temple. There is no recorded history as to the origin of the city, however it is believed that the city’s origin lies in the lake founded by the fourth Sikh Guru, Ram Das in 1574 at a community land lying between the village of Sultanwind, Tung, Gumtala and Gilwali. There is neither clarity nor any documentary evidence, as to how the land came into possession of these Sikh gurus. The most popular opinion is that Guru Ram das purchased it for INR 700 from the Zamindar of the village on the instruction of Emperor Akbar; others say that it was granted to the Sikh Guru by Emperor Akbar, or it was presented as Gift by the villagers to the revered Sikh Guru out of regard. The land came to be known as Guru Da Chak or Chakk Ram Das pura.

It is believed that Guru Amardas chalked out the original plan for this new city and instructed Guru Ram Das for execution. On his instruction, he founded the land in the village and constructed his own house. Some of the experienced elderly Sikhs also joined him and founded the beginnings of the city. First of all a boundary line of the settlement was drawn and the construction of the new centre was started with great enthusiasm, it was named Ram das Pura. As instructed the excavation of the tank was started. The tank was named Santokhsar.  Later on the instruction of Guru Amar Das, another tank was constructed at a low level area surrounded by Jujube Trees, near the first tank. Many Sikh devotees came to participate in the construction of the tank. Simultaneously the village was also developed with the settlement of 52 types of caste group from Patti, Kasur and Kalanaur. A market, which is now known as Guru Ka Bazaar, was established to ensure regular supply of essential commodities to the settlers. Some wells were dug for water supply .A number of rich bankers and traders also settled down in the town.  The tank was finally completed in 1577, but not before the death of Guru Ramdas at Goindwal.  On the completion of the project, the Guru called the local business community and told them to take charge of the holy place but they humbly pleaded their inability to perform religious duties and requested the Guru to engage some Brahmins and mendicants for the job. The second tank named Amrit Sarovar later gave the name of Amritsar to the new city. Amrit Sarovar remained unbricked till Guru Arjan Dev ascended the Guru Gaddi in 1581. The tanks side stairs were bricked. The Gurus instructed their disciples to take bath in the tank and meditate. Gradually the tank acquired a reputation of sanctity and became the headquarters of the Sikhs.

The city of Amritsar, also known as mukut-mani (Jewel of the crown)of the Punjab is  a dazzling showcase of composite culture and secular heritage .It has a proud past .a glorious present and a promising future  A rich repository of spiritual and national heritage, It has been hailed as the home of all virtues’(sifti da ghar) .while praying, every devout Sikh longs to be blessed with a pilgrimage to Amritsar and a holy bath at the Golden Temple . A visit to Amritsar and holy dip at the tank is believed to wash off all the sins.

Amritsar is easily accessible by road, railways and flight. It boasts of International airport with direct flights to United Kingdom and connecting flights to many other destinations in the world. It Is easily accessible by train from Delhi.

Things to see in Amritsar:

Sri Harminder Sahib a.k.a  Golden Temple Complex

One of the most sacred of Sikhs Temple, where every Sikh wish to visit one day, Sri Harmandir Sahib, also known as Sri Darbar Sahib or Golden Temple literally means “TheTemple of God (Hari means God, Amd Mandir means temple.). The dome of this three story structure is covered in Gold earning it the English name of Golden Temple.

Guru Arjan Sahib, the Fifth Nanak, conceived the idea of creating a central place of worship for the Sikhs and chose the sight of Amar Sarovar, which was already a popular tank for Sikhs for a Holy bath. He himself designed the architecture of Sri Harmandir Sahib.Guru Arjan Sahib got its foundation laid by a muslim saint Hazrat Mian Mir ji of Lahore on 1st of Magh, 1645 Bikrmi Samvat(December,1588). The construction work was directly supervised by Guru Arjan Sahib himself and he was assisted by the prominent Sikh personalities like Baba Budha ji, Bhai Gurdas ji, Bhai Sahlo ji and many other devoted Sikhs. The building work was completed in 1601 A.D. on Bhadoon Sudi 1st, 1661 Bikrmi Samvat (August/September, 1604). On completion of the Building , Guru Arjan Dev installed the newly created Holy book, Guru Granth Sahib  and appointed Baba Budha ji as its first Granthi i.e. the reader of Guru Granth Sahib. Soon the temple attained the status of ‘Ath Sath Tirath, a pilgrimage centre for Sikhs.

Sri Harmandir Sahib, is built on a 67ft. square platform at the centre of the Amar Sarovar(tank). The temple itself is 40.5ft. square. Harminder Sahib is built at a lower level unlike the Hindu Temples which are always built on a higher level. Also unlike Hindu Temples having only one gate for the entrance and exit, Guru Sahib got it open from four sides with a a door each on the East, West, North and South, signifying its access to to every person without any distinction of Caste, creed, sex and religion. 

The entrance to Harmnider Sahib is through the 202 feet long and 21 feet wide arch, standing at the shore end of the causeway and known as The Darshani Deori. The door frame of the arch is about 10ft in height and 8ft 6inches in breath. The door panes are decorated with artistic style. It opens on to the causeway or bridge that leads to the main building of Sri Harmandir Sahib. The bridge takes you to the 13 feet wide ‘Pardakshna’ (circumambulatory path) which runs round the main shrine and leads to the ‘Har ki Paure’ (steps of God). On the first floor of ‘Har ki Paure’, there is continuous reading of Guru Granth Sahib.

The main structure of Sri Harmandir Sahib, is a three storied one, the front, which faces the bridge, is decorated with repeated cusped arches.  The roof of the first floor is at the height of the 26 feet and 9 inches, at the top of which  4 feet high parapet rises on all the sides having  four ‘Mamtees’ on the four corners. Exactly on the top of the central hall of the main sanctuary rises the third story, which comprises a small square room and have three gates. A regular recitation of Guru Granth Sahib is also held there.

On the top of this room stands the low fluted ‘Gumbaz’(dome) having lotus petal motif in relief at the base inverted lotus at the top which supports the ‘Kalash’ having a beautiful ‘Chhatri’ at the end. Harminder Sahib got all the gold and exquisite marble work, under the patronage of Hukam Singh Chimni and Emperor Ranjit Singh, Maharaja of the Sikh Empireof the Punjab. The gold plating on the Harmandir Sahib was begun by Maharaja Ranjit Singh and was finished in 1830. The temple architecture shows unique blend of Hindu and Muslim way of construction has created an independent Sikh school of architecture in the history of art in India.

The Golden Temple complex has more to offer than Harminder Sahib, the following important places should be visited within the temple complex:

Akal Takht

The highest seat of the Sikh authority, the Akal Takht, built by Guru Hargovind in the year 1609 stands pretty opposite to the marbled Darshni Deorhi of Sri Harminder Sahib. Shri Hargovind was the sixth guru of the Sikhs who made immense contribution to popularize the religion. Akal Takht stands at a place which was once a play ground where the sixth Guru as a child used to spend time with his playmates.It was here that he was established as the Guru after his father - Guru Arjan Dev's death. Guru Hargovind used to supervise the young Sikhs practicing their warfare exercises in the same spot. Later he decided to build the imposing Akal Takht at that site. The Akal Takhat was used for holding court and Sikh congregations in the days of its builder. The ground floor of the present building was constructed in 1 874. Three storeys were subsequently added by Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Later Han Singh Nalwa constructed the Golden Dome. The traditional arms and weapons used by the earlier Gurus and Sikh warriors are displayed every evening at the Akal Takht.

Baba Atal

At and imposing height of 108ft. , this one of its kind -09 storey toere was built between 1778 and 1784 in Atal Rai (D. 1628), a son of Guru Hargobind, who died at age of nine. He was called 'Baba' (an old man) head over young shulders.

The other notable things to visit within the temple complex includes

(a) Dukh Bhanjni Ber (sacred Jujube Tree) 

(b)Thara Sahib

(c) Ber Baba Budha Ji (sacred Jujube Tree) 

(d) Gurdwara llachi Ber (sacred Jujube Tree) 

(e) Ath Sath Tirath (Sixty eight holy places condensed into one) &

(f) Gurdwara Shaheed Bunga Baba Deep Singh. 

Central Sikh Museum

The complex has the Central Sikh Museum, whih has paintings of Sikh Gurus, Saints, Sikh warriors and other prominent Sikh leaders who have in their own way contributed a lot to the enhancement of Sikh Religion

Guru Ka Langar

A Sikh temple without a Community Kitchen is inconceivable. Cooked food comprising of Flat Indian Bread and Lentil is served in the kitchen of the Harmandir Sahib 24 hours to all visitors irrespective of religion, caste, creed and nationality. The expenses are met out of the Temple funds. Approximately 40,000 visitors share the meals everyday presently.

Accommodation at Harminder Sahib

The complex in its premises offers free accommodaton as well as accommodation at very nominal rents too. The following accommodation is available within the temple complex:

 SRI GURU RAM DAS NIWAS is a free hostel for the pilgrims maintained by the Temple authorities and built by the Gurdwara Committee. It has 228 rooms and 18 big halls, and unlike the ordinary 'Daramsalas' it supplies the facilities of free beddings, cots, lights and fans etc. to the lodgers but accommodation is restricted to maximum three nights stay. The doors of the hostels are open to all. The lodgers however must not do anything repugnant to the teachings of Sikhism. 

GURU NANAK NIWAS offers 66 Rooms -22 with attached baths and 44 without baths. For the 44 rooms each floor has been provided with 10 common bath rooms and ten flush latrines so as to make stay comfortable. 

AKAL REST HOUSE offers 26 rooms with double beds and attached bath rooms on a nominal Rent. 

GURU HARGOBIND NIWAS offers 92 double bed rooms with attached bath in addition to four halls. Rooms are available at Rs. 50/- per day.

Atari Border (Wagah Border from Pakistan Side)

28 kms from Amritsar, India and 25 kms from Lahore Pakistan, located in Atari village, wagah border is only one of the passage which is open between India and Pakistan. The border place comprises of a huge arch and has gates of both the countries.It witnesses the bitter sweet relationship between India and Pakistan every day, through the famous beating retreat ceremony conducted here every evening, which includes the closing of international gates and the lowering of the flags of both the countries.

The flag code of India mandates that the national flag shall be flown only from sunrise to sunset and must be lowered in the evening, folded and kept with respect to be flown again the next day. The lowering of flag and the change of guard is done through the beating retreat ceremony, first started in 1959 on agreement between the two governments to increase the goodwill between the two countries, involves soldier marching a perfect drill to bring down the flag, on both sides of the border, the patriotic fervor running high on both sides. The guards on both sides of the border, who perform are chosen carefully among those who have great height, ability to perform and imposing stature.

The ceremony lasts for 45 minutes and is carried out before sunset. 4:15 pm is the time during winter and 4:45 during summer. The border gate is open from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm. However, the ceremony starts only after 4:00 pm. It is ideal to reach Wagah border by 3:00 pm to watch the ceremony. Around 5000 people come to see the ceremony every day; Seating arrangements are made for spectators to watch the ceremony. Exclusive seats are reserved for women. General seating is allowed only for men. There is also a VIP seating close to the gate and requires a special pass. The border post have jammers installed so mobile phones does not work here, no covered bags are allowed to be taken, which included ladies purses and bags, stall are available nearby to buy food and water. There are no entry fees neither a ticket needs to be purchased to watch the ceremony.

Jallianwala Bagh

Jallianwala Bagh once a non descrepit garden enclosed by stone walls from all sides, was used for the public meetings in pre independence era, but it all changed on April 13, 1919, the day of the traditional and joyous festival of Baisakhi, when General Dyer ordered open firing on a group of 10000 to 15000 people who have gathered there to silently protest against the atrocities of the British empire on Indians. An hour after the meeting began as scheduled at 16:30, Dyer arrived with a group of sixty-five Gurkha and twenty-five Baluchi soldiers, blocked the narrow exits and ordered his troops to fire towards the densest section of the crowds which included women, children and men. The firing continued for around 10 minutes, killing about a 1000 people (British official figures were 369 people), many of whom jumped in the local well to save themselves.

Since then it has become a symbol of the independence struggle, a place of great significance, sorrow and historical tragedy.  Exactly 42 years after the date of tragedy, a memorial designed by an American Architecht, Mr Benjamin Polk was built and open to public in 1961, after an inauguration by the then President of India Dr. Rajendra Prasad, A lantern made of stone is lit on all four sides of the monument with words of homage encrypted to salute the sacrifice of the martyrs.

People can visit the garden on all seven days of the week. The timings of the visits are from 6:00 am to 9:00 pm in the summer and 7:00 am to 8:00 pm in the winter.

Durgiana Temple

More famous for its strikingly similar structure to the Golden Temple, Durgiana Temple, dedicated to Goddess Durga, is an important pilgrimage sight for Hindu’s. It is also known as the Laxmi narayanTemple, located near the Lohagarh Gate, just 1-5 kms from the railway station. The city of Amritsar is considered pious by Hindu’s as it is believed to be visited by Lord Rama, at the time of Ashavmegh Yagh. Lov & Kush spent their childhood alongwith their mother Mata Sita at the Ashram of Maharishi Balmiki at Ram Tirath King Ishvaku Grandson of Surya Devta performed a number of Yagyas on this land. The Temple complex dates bac k to the 16^th century, the oldest temple being the Durga Temple also known as Mata Shitla Mata Temple. The temple complex have the temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, Satya Narain, where the story of Satya Narain Is recited every poornima, Radha Kishan , Lord Rama and Lord Hanuman, who is believed to visit this place every day.

The main attraction however is the Lakshmi Narayan Mandir, a brain child of Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya, a great Hindu Philosopher and reformist, who conceived It in 1920. With the effort of Guru Harsh Sai Mal Kapoor, the funds were collected and the foundation stone of the Temple was laid on 07^th October 1920, the day of Vijaydashmi. To commemorate the contribution of the Guru, a statue of his is placed in the front of the temple in a sitting posture.

Like Golden Temple, The Durgiana Temple islocated in the middle of pious pond, whose water is believed to have medicinal value. The main gate of the temple is 12ft x 12 ft and is of silver, which leads to  Darshani Deori, to the left and right of which stands the ido;s of Maa Durga and Lord Ganesh. As you approach the main temple through an 18.5mts bridge, you can see the beautiful image of Lord Lakshmi Narayan in standing posture. The Temple’s central dome as well as the four smaller corner domes is Gold plated, all gates, totaling 09 are of Silver.

There is a Langar Bhavan, where Langar (Free meal) is served to the devotees in the afternoon and evening. Prayers are conducted in the temple, 05 times a day as per Hindu ritual. A Gyan Katha Bhawan is also there within the complex, which is used for religious discourses.

Gobingarh Fort

Originally known as Bhangian Da Kila, Gobindgarh fort of Amritsar was built by the army of Gujjar Singh Bhangi of Mislin in 1760. The fort was constructed with brick and lime in a square pattern with a parameter of 1500sq mt, two majestic gates, four large bastions and well defined rampart armed with 25 cannons. The two gates are names as Nalwa Gate, after the Great Sikh Soldier and Keelar Gate. It is believed that, from the keelar Gate, a secret passage was linked to Lahore Tunnel, however there are no evidence which have been collected for the same.

In 1805-06, the fort was taken over by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, often referred to as the Lion of Punjab. Maharaja Ranjit with the help of Jodh Singh strengthened the fortification of the fort in order to keep his treasures and treaties in safety including the Kohinoor Diamond. He also added a moat to surround the fort and added numerous bastions.

The British authorities undertake Gobindgarh fort in 1849. They added the Darbar Hall, Hawa Mahal and the Phansi Ghar to the fort. Later October 1948, the Indian army took control of the fort and they are still maintaining it.

Ram Bagh

Named after the 04^th Spiritual Guru and founder of Amritsar, Guru Ram Das, Ram Bagh is a beautiful garden which was once spread over 84acres and enclosed with 14 ft high wall. After Sikh Ruler Mahraja Ranjit Singh took over Lahore in 1799, he made Amritsar his capital in 1802. Later in 1818, he got this garden constructed on the pattern of Shalimar Bagh of Lahore, under the command of Fakeer Azeez-ud-din and Sardars Lehna Singh and Desa Singh Majithia (the nobles of Lahore darbar). It stands out for its collection of rare coniferous trees, herbal plants and water channels set with fountains and golden fish. In the centre of the garden, a double story palace with basement was constructed and this palace is known as the summer palace of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Today, the summer palace of Ranjit Singh has been converted into a museum, which is rich with traditional items.The museum boasts of an exclusive display of antique weapons dating back to the Mughal times, portraits of ruling houses of Punjab and a replica of diamond "Kohinoor". In the earlier days, the garden was approached by a huge fortified gate, which exists even today. However, it is placed on the periphery of the garden today. At one end of the garden, one can see a lively statue of the king seated on a horse.

There is just a nominal charge to enter into the garden. It is open to tourists every day except for Wednesdays.

Jama Masjid Khairuddin:

Located in the Hall Bazaar area, the mosque Built by Mohd. Khairuddin in 1876, is both religiously important as well as an architectural marvel. The Masjid is equally important historically as it is the same place from where a call against the British rule was given by Tootie-e-Hind, Shah Attaullah Bukhari.

Mata Temple

Mata Lal Devi Temple, modeled on the famous Hindu Shrine of Mata Vaishno Devi is not an architectural marvel for its structure, but its interiors are equally fascinating. Famous for its fertility improving powers.This Hindu Temple commerates 20^th century female saint Lal Devi. From the main hall, a narrow series of stairways and passages winds past mirrored mosaics, fairground-style carvings, and untold deity statues to a semi-submerged mock-up of the Vasihno Devi cave temple. The liberal use of mirror in decorating the interiors has given it a sobriquet of “Sheesh Mahal”. The elaborate mirror work and vivid spectrum of colors offers a visual retreat to the visitors. Mata Lal Devi is believed to weild special powers to grant the wish of the people, who want to start the family, by bestowing them with fertility powers. It is believed that anyone who wishes for a child here gets their wish fulfilled soon. The temple is located at Rani Ka Bagh and is open from morning 0500 hrs till 2300 hrs, entry is free for all.

The Historical Banyan Tree (Shaheedi Bohr):

This historical tree with massive girth and lushgreen canopy stands majestically in the Namdhari Shaheedi Samark against the majestic back drop of the northern boundary of Ram Bagh.Four Kookas were hanged from this tree by the British Government in 1871 because they had reacted violently against the hawking of beef around the Golden Temple.

EXCURSION FROM AMRITSAR

Ram Tirath (11kms)

A place of immense importance for the follower of Hinduism, Ram Tirath located 11 kms west of Amritsar on Chogawan road, is believed to date back to the period of Ramayana, and is believed to be the place where Rishi Valmiki’s hermitage was. It is also believed that Luv & Kush were born here; a hut still exists to mark the site. Rishi Valmiki’s hut and the well with stairs where Mata Sita used to take her bath still exist. The place has an ancient tank and many temples. The Bedis of Punjab (Guru Nanak Dev, the founder Prophet of Sikhism was a Bedi) trace their descent from Kush and Sodhis (the 10th Prophet of Sikhism, Guru Gobind Singh was a Sodhi) from Luv. A four day fair, is held here starting on the full moon night in November.

Pul Kanjari: (35kms)

Enroute to Wagah border, about 35kms away from the Amritsar Railway station and 5kms from the Border, UNESCO world heritage sight of Pul Kanjari stands on the Amritsar Lahore road, near the villages of Daoka and Dhanoa Kalan. Pul Kanjari was built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh and was used by him as a resting place, during his journey between Amritsar and Lahore. The legend has it that the village was named after a pul (bridge) that was built by the king for a dancer Moran. Moran hailed from the nearby village of Makhanpur, to reach her village , she has to cross a small canal linked to river Ravi, which was built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in order to irrigate Shalimar Gardens of Lahore. The canal did not have a proper bridge. One of the days, while returning from the royal court and passing through the canal, the dancer lost her silver sandals, which were presented to her by the Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Anguished by her loss, she refused to perform at the court of Mahraja. When Maharaja came to know of it, he immediately ordered the construction of this bridge. Since the court dancers were not a respected lot, they were referred to as “Kanjari”, hence bridge got named as Pul Kanjari.

Ruins of a magnificent fort, an impressive baoli can be found here apart from the remnants of a temple, a Gurudwara and a Mosque, which bespeak of the secular outlook of Maharaja Ranjit Singhji. Theinside of the cornor dome of the baoli is decorated with the paintings of a number of scenes and sights from the Hindu scriptures and the Raj darbar, each frescoe laced with floral frame. Now renovated and preserved by by The Ministry of Tourism, Govt. of India and Govt. of Punjab, the Pul Kanjari complex contains The Mosque, Baradari –the house of Maharaja Ranjit Singh with 12 doors, a Sarovar – originally a store house for the water from the nearby canal, it has been converted into a pool to bathe with separate arrangements for gents and ladies, and a Shiv Temple –located on the right side of the memorial, is made of Nanakshahi Bricks and is decorated with beautiful frescoe work

Samadhi of Guru Angad Dev Ji: (30kms)

About 30 km south east from Amritsar, and within easy reach from Goindwal Sahib is a Samadhi of the second Guru. It was built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1815 A.D.

Khoo Kalyanwala: 

In 1857, during the first Rebellion against the British in 1857, On the call of Mangal Pandey a platoon of 400 soldier stationed at Lahore rebelled against the British Government by fleeing their barracks. The deserted soldiers bravely swam across the flooded Ravi and reached Ajnala. However they were captured at Ajnala, and on the orders of Mr.Fredric Cooper, the then Deputy Commissioner of Amritsar, put in a coop-like room where almost 200 soldiers died of asphyxia. The rest of them were brutally shot dead the next morning and their dead bodies thrown in the well which came to be known as the Kalianwala Khoo in Tehsil Ajnala.

Samadhi of Shravan:

About 6 Kilometres from Ajnala near Jastarwal (earlier known as Dashrathwal), belonging to the Ramayana period, a Samadhi believed to be of the legendary Shravan (Shravan had taken his blind parents on a wide-ranging pilgrimage by cradling them on his shoulder in a wooden device.)is located. It is believed that Shravan was buried here after the fell from the arrow of King Dashrath, the Lord of Ayodhya. The Samadhi is situated on the banks of an old rivulet (Purani Dhab).

Taran Taran Sahib

Tarn Taran Saheb is a city that was founded by Shri Guru Anjan Dev, the fifth Sikh Guru. He had also laid the foundation of Tarn Taran Sahib Temple. Tarn Taran was later declared as a district and it has the largest percentage of Sikh population in Punjab. It has many gurudwaras, most popular being the Gurudwara Darbar Sahib. Apart from Gurudwara Darbar Sahib, other important places in this district incudes Gurudwara Bir Buddha Sahib, Goindwal Sahib, Khadur Sahib and Harike Wetland and bird sanctuary, Faridkot fort etc. 

LANSDOWNE -A nature's surprise in the backdrop of Delhi

Uttarakhand – is a paradise for nature lovers, trekkers, honeymooners or even for those families who are looking to have time together in a scenic peaceful environment. Uttarakhand has no dearth of scenic Himalayan mountain peaks calling you to spend time with them, be it the more famous one's like Mussoorie, Nainital , Ranikhet, Almora or the upcoming exclusive destination like Kanatal, Bhimtal, Binsar, Munsiyari etc. One of the lesser known, but equally beautiful hill station is Lansdowne – which calls you to lose yourself in the scenic non pretentious rural environment.

Located at a drive of 248 kms from Delhi, Lansdowne is conveniently connected through train route. You can take the train till Kotdwara (Garhwal Express and Mussoorie Express are the two train which connect it from Delhi), from where the remaining 45 kms journey can be covered by shared or private cabs. At the altitude of 370mts, Kotdwara is the nearest railway station to Lansdowne and the gateway to the beautiful Himalayan Region. The nearest airport to Lansdowne is Jolly Grant Airport near Dehradun, located at a distance o 152 kms. With an altitude of 1850mts, Lansdowne is the nearest hill station to Delhi

Originally known a Kaludanda, after Kalun (Black) and Danda (Hill) in local language, Lansdowne was founded in 1887 by then Viceroy of India, Lord Lansdowne (Viceroy of India during the period of 1888 – 1894) and aptly named after him. It later was developed as Recruits training centre of the Garhwal rifles. Primarily a cantonment area, more than half of the hill station of Lansdowne is still made up of British era Army quarters and offices occupying the streets and corners.  Presently the famous Garhwal rifles of the Indian Army have its command centre here.

Surrounded by thick oak and blue pine forests, Lansdowne has scenic beauty which gets enhanced by its salubrious weather and pristine environment. It is not only the perfect place to meditate and rejuvenate your soul but also a perfect place to rediscover yourself by indulging in adventure activities like, trekking, bird watching, boating, paddling etc. The climate of the city is pleasant in summer, very cold in winter, while snowfall is experienced in January & February. Lansdowne can be visited any time of the year.

What to See??

Most of the area of Lansdowne is controlled by Army, which has helped in maintaining the natural environment of the area by checking unbridled construction and regulating the regular touristic activities. The Town centre is the main market place where all the commercial activities are restricted and you can find many good eateries here, however the street in itself is quite unglamorous.

The Garhwal Rifles participated in the two world wars and countless other battles throughout it’s more than 100 years of history. Being a cantonment and headquarter of Garhwal rifles, the two most important places to visit here is related to the history of Indian Army. One of them is The War Memorial, unveiled on 11 Nov 1923(Armistice Day)  by Lord Rawlinson of Trent, the then Commander in Chief of India at the Parade Ground of the Garhwal Rifles Center, in memory of contribution of Garhwali soldiers during 1914-18 First World War. This life-size statue was sculpted by L. S. Merrifield from Chelsea, England.

The other is The Garhwal Rifles regimental museum, also called Darwan Singh Sanghralaya, which houses arte facts from the beginning of the Regiment. It is named after its more famous soldier Darwan Singh Negi, who along with Gabar Singh Negi was on of the earliest recipient of Victoria Cross that is prominently on display here along with many other medals won by its fierce soldiers. The museum, inaugurated in 1983, is open to visitors from 0900hrs till Noon and from 1500hrs till 1800hrs. A nominal entry fee of Rs 35 per person is levied on the visitors.  All artifacts, including photographs, arms used by regimental commanders, captured weapons, campaign history and other information is displayed in this museum. Just opposite to the museum a beautiful flower garden is maintained.

The oldest building in Lansdowne is the Garhwali Mess which dates you back to the Victorian period. The mess was built in Jan 1888 and subsequently became the present mess in 1892. Garhwali Mess is very well maintained heritage site of Lansdowne.

For families looking forward to spend some quality time with each other, the important natural landmark of Lansdowne Bhulla Taal, an artificial lake built by Army Jawans in year 2003 is the place to be in. Bhulla literally means Younger Brother in The Garhwali Language, and apparently refers to the young Garhwali soldiers here. You can go for a Boat ride or let your children play in the manicured park where they can enjoy the facility of various rides, while you satiate yourself with some delicious snacks at the restaurant. The machaan next to the lake offers enchanting views of the surrounding and should not be missed. Presence of Fountains, significant population of Geese and swans, and sighting of rabbits apart from the surrounding greenery, makes it an interesting place for family picnicking.

A 02 kms trek from here through path surrounded with blue pine trees and thick oak forests, takes you to Tip n Top aka Tiffin Top, from where you can have an astounding view of the surrounding Shivaliks. Enroute is another historical landmark of Lansdowne, the St Mary’s church. Lieutenant Hume of Royal Engineers is credited with the construction of this Protestant Church. The construction began in 1895 and was completed in 1896. After Indian Independence in 1947, with the retreat of British officers, the church fell into disuse. In recent times, Garhwal Rifle regiment has taken unto itself to restore it to its previous glory. It now has been converted into a library, where every morning at 8.00 AM, an Audio-Visual Presentation on the history of Lansdowne and Garhwal Rifles is shown. A nominal entry Fee of INR 10/- per person is charged for the same.

Another km of trek and climb of about 100 steps takes you to local Santoshi Mata Temple. Maintained by Garhwal Rifles, absence of priests and shops selling Prasad comes as a welcome change. The temple building in itself is a simple structure and nothing to talk about, but the Goddess is revered amongst the locals. If Tip n Top is the best place to view the sunrise, Santoshi Mata Temple is the best place to view the sunset. It gives you a mesmerizing view of the sun setting in the Himalayas.

Four other small temples, Hanuman Temple, Vaishno devi Temple, Kaleshwar temple and Bhairav temple are present within the city, giving you beautiful vantage points to have scenic views of the Himalayas.

Lansdowne is also blessed with some of the more important religious temples in its surroundings, revered by the local people. If one plans to stay longer at Lansdowne an excursion to these sights could be an interesting option to fill your day.

The most famous of all is the Durga Devi temple, located inside a cave around 25kms from Lansdowne, on the bank of River Koh; it is considered as one of the oldest Sidh Peeths of India. It is believed that if you ask a wish and tie a cloth, your wish gets fulfilled. Siddhbali Temple, having Bajrang Bali as its main deity, is another temple revered highly by people, a Bhandara(feast) is organized by devotees every Tuesday, Saturday and Sunday. The temple was broken almost one third due to landslide in late 80's, and miraculously survived and now situated on top of the town as an icon of the city. It is said that Lord Hanuman himself supported the structure on his shoulders.

Tarakeshwar Temple, some 36kms from Lansdowne, is another landmark temple which should not be missed. Abode of an ancient Shiva Temple which is the presiding deity of not only the Garhwal Rifles but also of 84 villages around it, it is believed that Goddess Parvati prayed in Tarakeshwar to get Lord Shiva.

There is another story about Tarkeshwar mahadev Temple. According to folklore, after killing demon Tarakasur, Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati came here to take rest. To save Lord Shiva from the shining sun, Goddess Parvati transformed herself into seven Deodar trees; all other deodar trees of the area have originated from these seven trees. The deodar trees located at the height of 4500fts are surrounded by Chir Pine and Oak trees at a higher altitude, giving it a unique microenvironment and unparalleled scenic beauty. The belief that the deodar grove forms a shape of Hindi letter ‘Aum” and the serenity and tranquility of the deodar grove make it an excellent place to unwind and meditate. A perennial stream called Bees Ganga flows out of here, believed to originate from around twenty micro and mini-micro watersheds in Tarakeshwar. The temple complex has a meditation hall, natural pools to bathe (separate for men and women) and a separate havan kund to conduct prayers.

The Temple has a tradition of offering of bells, whenever a wish is fulfilled or after pious occasion like marriage or child birth. These bells are stored in temple premises, and when their number become sizable, they are hung outside on the pathways. The soldiers of the Garhwal Rifles after returning from any war operation to their cantonment in Lansdowne come in a convoy to Tarakeshwar and perform ‘puja’ here. They also offer a big bell which is normally hung at the gate of the Temple. Presently, the bell which they offered after returning from the Kargill war is hung at the gate. It is said that the Shiva Lingam started sinking when the temple was being constructed. Shiva Lingam is located at the spot below the image of the deity where the water offered by the devotees goes. It is now not accessible to people.

Jwalpa Devi Temple is another Siddhpeeth about 40 kms from Lansdowne, 34kms from Pauri on main Pauri Kotdwar road, Right Bank of the Nawalika River(gaadan),hardly a 350 mts walk from the roadside.. According to a legend in Hindu Ancient religious scripture of Skandha Puraan, Sachi, daughter of Pulom, the demon king, wanted to marry Devraj Indra (King of Gods, the rain God) so she worshipped The Supreme mother Goddess 'Shakti'.  The Goddess appeared in the form of Deeptimaan Jwalehwari to get her wish fulfilled. The place where Sachi prayed and the Goddess appeared, is the same place where today, Jwalpa Devi Temple is located. As the time passed, the name gradually got evolved to Jwalpa Devi. Adi Guru Shankaracharya once visited and prayed at this temple and it is said that The Goddess appeared to him. Anthwals are the traditional priests and care-takers of this temple. The present temple was constructed by Late Pt Shri Dutta Ram Anthwal (Anthwals being the zameendaar of the area, originally from village Aneth). Every year thousands of people visit this temple, specially unmarried girls, as it is believed that the Goddess Sachi (Indrani) grant their wish to find grooms which they dream of, just like Indraani(sachi) got Lord Indra by the grace of The Goddess. Every year during auspicious days of Chitra and Shardiya Navratri, a fair is organized.

Bhim Pakora is an art of nature, a big rock piece precariously placed over another big rock, naturally balanced over it. When pushed, it moves slightly but noticeably, but never falls down. The way to it passes through the local market and from near a Lansdowne suburb.

Kanva Ashram, Abode of sage Kanva, located around 40 km away from Lansdowne, according to Hindu mythology, this was the place where sage Kanva used to have an Ashram. Once when famous sage Vishwamitra was meditating here, Lord Indra got scared and sent the most beautiful of Damsels, Menaka, to break his prayer and distract him. After efforts spanning numerous days, Menaka was successful in luring the sage with her beauty and married with him. The Damsel Menaka, returned to the court of Indra in Heaven, once she gave birth to their child, a Girl named Shakuntala. The girl was brought up by the sage, later married to King Dushyanta, who was the king of Hastinapur, ancient India. After King Dushyanta deserted her, Shakuntala came back to the Ashram and gave birth to their child,  to a boy, who was named Bharat. He later became the King of India, and after him, the country came to be known as Bharat. The place is sacred but does not have much to show in terms of the buildings or grandiose temples.

Lansdowne and the surroundings, although not one of the most scenic of the mountain destinations, certainly are one of the best kept nature’s secret. 

Elephant Festival - Celebrating the Royalty

Men in  its history, have deployed many a means for their transport, some mechanized and some driven by animals. Man had rode on Horses, mules, camels and have employed bulls and even dogs to pull their vehicle and help them move, but when it comes to Elephant, it instantly exuberate royalty. One of the most difficult animals to rear and maintain and although not as swift as others,  its sheer size makes its rider feel on the top of world and powerful. 

The camel is the most visible symbol of Rajasthan, however when it comes to Rajput royalty, the elephant wins hands down. Elephants have always been a carrier of royalty in Indian culture, and to celebrate the association and beauty of this beast,  Rajasthan  - a princely state associated with abundance of  royalties initiated THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL, to be celebrated in the Pink city of Jaipur. 

So, while Bikaner ,Jaisalmer and Pushkar celebrates the Ship of the Desert through their respective cattle fairs ,Jaipur scores it points by celebrating the symbol of Royalty The elephant. The Elephant festival is organised every year by the Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation, just a day prior to the festival of Colors Holi ( Dhulandi), making it even more interesting. The Elephant Festival is held at its official venue, Rambagh Polo Ground in Jaipur, and attracts thousands of eager tourists from across India and overseas. 

The festival usually starts at around 1500 hrs and lasts for about 03 hrs, where apart from the Elephants, human folk artists and guests to participate, creating an atmosphere of joyous celebration of life, which culminates into the festival of colors - Holi , which is celebrated with vigour, the very next day. There is no entrance charges/ tickets to witness the festival and all are welcome to participate and witness this magnificent festival. 

The festival starts with the traditional procession of the richly decorated and caparisoned elephants , accompanied by the folk musician and dancers, who march along , while the dancers in their bright colored clothes displays their rich moves spreading a flurry of colors, the melodious folk music blend perfectly with the background, setting your mood for enjoyment. You would have rarely seen the monotonously colored black elephants in such a rich colorful avatar. The procession is followed by best decorated Elephant competition. Elephants, like beauty queens of a pageant walks on the ground displaying their makeup. Elephants are richly decorated with the application of vibrant colors on their body in different motives, their golden and silver caparison perfectly blending with the cloths , trinkets and jewellery they adorn in their neck, trunks and tusks, giving them the most beautiful look. The most innovatively and beautifully decorated Elephant is adjudged the winner and offered a prize. 

You will then see the prowess of an Elephant as it swiftly moves covering the vast Polo Ground, while a match of Elephant Polo is played. The players wear saffron and red turbans, sit on the elephants, and try to score goals with long sticks and a plastic football. Only female elephants take part in this festival. Elephant Polo is followed by a race between the Elephants. 

Visitors and tourists also get to test their strength when tourist (mostly foreigners- on account of extending courtesy to the guest an integral part of India culture) picked from the audience get to participate in the tug of war with the elephant. Since years ,there is always one winner, every year however the visitors do hope to reverse the obvious result.

Th Crafts Museum, Delhi - Preserving Folk Art Legacy

National Handicrafts and Handlooms Museum, New Delhi

 

With the advent of modern technology and machines capable of producing items on mass scale without the interference of the human in most cases, the scope of human creativity being engraved into the creation of the articles of daily use, be its textile or utensils have got limited. It also mean that those engaged in the creative field of Handicrafts and textiles too are seeing the demand of their produce dwindling and their art facing extinction.

With the aim of preserving the traditional arts and crafts of craftsmen from different parts of India, showcasing their talent and giving them a platform where they can display their creation directly to the buyer, National Handicrafts and Handloom Museum was established in the year 1956. The sustained effort of the renowned freedom fighter Smt Kamladevi Chattopadhyaya over 1950’s -60’s saw its further expansion for a period of next 30 years , to give it the present form and scale.

Located on Bhairon Road, near Pragati Maidan in Delhi and run by Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, it is also popularly known as crafts museum, The crafts Museum is unique in a way as it painstakingly imitates typical Indian villages from different parts of India, where the craftsmen sitting outside the museum displays their skills. A visit to Crafts museum will not only let you see the long history of the Indian crafts and the produce of some of the finest folk craftsmen, it also gives you an insight into the way people in Indian villages stay and go about their daily life.

Today the museum holds over 35,000 rare and distinctive pieces of pottery, wood carvings, metal ware sculpture, image and toys sculpture, folk paintings, tribal textiles and hand made jewellery, embroidery of tribes from Bihar, West Bengal and Madhya Pradesh among other states. Some of the arte facts on display are upto 300 years old. All craft items are housed in the buildings designed between 1975 and 1990 by renowned architect Charles Correa, who has incorporated traditional architectural vocabulary into a modern design.

The museum is further divided into five different galleries which include the Tribal and Rural Craft Gallery, Gallery of Courtly Crafts, Textile Gallery, Gallery of Popular Culture & Ritual craft gallery. Each of these galleries display a wide range of collection of some rate and unique craft work that ranges from lamps, incense stick burners, bronze and precious metal-ware images and jewellery, stone and wood sculptures, utensils and accessories for daily use, clay pots, clay dolls and wooden toys, puppets, tribal masks and jewellery, bamboo, cane and terracotta craft work.Some of its prized collection include, the 250-300-year-old, Bhoota (Bhuta) Collection from Karnataka (which is basically collection of carved out figures of Goddesses and folk deities of coastal Karnataka iin wood), rare Kashmiri 300-year-old ‘dushalas’, handkerchiefs from Chamba, known for their unique embroidery, rare brocade and Baluchari saris and Kutch embroidery, precious metal jewellery, rare bronze figurines from the tribes of Chhattisgarh, architectural style of Gujarat carved in wood depicting havelis, jharokhas (window), balconies, along with wall hangings, bead work, rare and unique Brocade saris and much more . The museum also boasts of huge collection of tribal and rural textiles and is an equally interesting place to visit for researchers, designers, students and craftsmen.

The Museum also houses a village complex spread over 5 acre (2000 sqmts), a remnant of a temporary exhibition on the theme of India held at 1972. The village complex have 15 structures representing village dwellings (houses) with their elaborate courtyards, rooms and kitchens, the huts made of mud and haystacks, hay roofs and sandy streets. Each of the 15 structures represents the exact replica of a village house from a different state of India, each house equipped with the replica of items used in daily life and depicts how villagers live in actual life. The crafts village also provides accommodation to several traditional craftsmen, who can be seen working in designated areas of the museum complex, where they display how the crafts are produced and actually sell their products.

The village complex also has open walls along the corridors & passages which are used as the canvas to display the painted traditions of several tribes by folk artisans/painters. Every month new folk artists are invited from different parts of the country to paint and decorate the museum’s walls.

 

Apart from the collection of handicrafts and textile and the crafts village, the museum houses Research and Documentation facilities, a reference library, a conservation laboratory and an auditorium.

The National Handicrafts and Handlooms museum, Delhi a.k.a crafts museum is open daily except Monday. The Museum opens at 0930 hrs and is open till 1700 hrs between July and September while it is open from 0930 hrs till 1800 hrs from October to June.

National Handicrafts and Handloom Museum or Crafts Museum is doing a tremendous job in preserving and promoting the folk legacy of India.

More information can be had from the craft museum’s own website www.nationalcraftsmuseum.nic.in

Siliguri - The Gateway To North East

Siliguri : Located on the foothills of Himalaya, on the banks for River Mahananda, spread in an area of 48 sq kms, Siliguri is the second largest city in the state of West Bengal and the largest city in North Bengal. Located in the area, known as chickens neck (a thin strip of land connecting mainland India with North East) on the map of India, it is a gateway to main hill stations of North East India including Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Kurseong, Mirik etc. Siliguri shares its border with three countries, China, Bangladesh and Nepal which not only makes it a strategically important city but also a trading hub. With half a million of population and a booming economy, Siliguri is the transit point for air, rail and road transport for North East India. Its strategic location makes it an important military base, which is affirmed by the presence of the bases of Indian Army, Shahshatra Seema Bal, The Assam Rifles, Central Reserve Police Force and Border Security force.

The origin of Siliguri cannot be ascertained, Siliguri (known as Silichaguri till 19^th century) roughly means a heap of stones or pebbles and acted as a transit point between Nepal, Darjeeling and Kurseong. It was a small village in the trans- Morang Zone (i.e. at the meeting ground of western and eastern Morang), and belonged to the southernmost fringe of Kingdom of Sikkim. Just to the south of Siliguri, At Phanisdeoa, there was a river port having trade relations with Maldah and subsequently with the rest of Bengal and Bihar. The Sikkimese and the Bhutanese (mainly via Kalimpong as it was under Bhutan since the beginning of the eighteenth century) used the river bank near Siliguri in order to go down the Mahananda with their merchandise to Phansideoa. With the rise of King Prithvi Narayan Shah (1769 -1775), the area was annexed and came under Nepal. After the Sugauli Treaty in 1816 between British India and Nepal, post Anglo Nepal War, it became a part of British India. With the Occupation of Darjeeling in 1835 and rest of Dooars and Kalimpong in 1865, Siliguri started developing as a small town and major trading point. With the declaration of Indian Independence in 1947 and separation of Bangladesh, Siliguri saw a huge influx of immigrants and the city grow into a large town. The introduction of the railway to North East India and construction of Siliguri train station on 23^rd August 1880, played an important part in the development of this town. Siliguri today is an important town with majority of Bengali population co-existing with Gurkhas, Marwaris, Biharis etc.

Life in Siliguri revolves around 4T’s – Tea, Timber, Tourism and Transport. The climate of Siliguri is pleasurable throughout the year and is perfect for growing tea. Many Tea Garden are present in and around Siliguri town and gives it a green ethereal surrounding and a beautiful landscape to be cherished.

Being a transit point, the transport infrastructure of Siliguri is comprehensively advanced. Public Transport means include auto rickshaws, cycle rickshaws, local buses and large tempo. Siliguri have three major railway stations, The Siliguri Town is the Oldest in the area, Opened on 23^rd August 1880, it is the starting point for the famous narrow gauge Toy Train to Darjeeling. Siliguri Junction was the second one opened in 1949 was the point of departure for all trains to North East. It used to be one of the only railway station in India with all three gauge train tracks. Now all the long distance trains have been converted into broad gauge and the metre gauge does not exist. The New Jalpaiguri (earlier known as New Silliguri) was opened in 1964 and serves as the connecting point to every nook and corner of the country. It is one of the largest station in North East India.

Bagdogra International Airport is the only airport in the region connecting North Bengal, Sikkim and some of the North Eastern states. The airport is connected with direct flights to Kolkata and Delhi and from there connects to the rest of the world.

The Tenzin Norgay bus station connects Siliguri to Kolkata, Patna and Assam through overnight sleeper buses. It also connects to destination in Gangtok and a bus service also exists connecting to Phuentsholing in Bhutan.

Siliguri apart from being a trading hub is also a tourist paradise. Apart the Tea Gardens and beautiful, many important tourist places can be visited while in Silliguri

Salugara Monastery: Founded by Buddhist monks, it is a Buddhist pilgrim centre for the followers of Dalai Lama. There is a 100feet stupa here which is believed to have been founded by Kalu Rimpoche, the Lama from Tibet. It has five varieties of relics. Located 06 kms from Siliguri, it has scenic surroundings perfect for meditation..

Coronation Bridge: Built in the year 1930, this bridge over River Teesta, located at the meeting point of River Rangeet and River Teesta was built to respect the coronation of King George V.It is an important construction as it connects Jalpaiguri and Darjeeling. Situated near to Sevokeshwari Kali Mandir in the serene surroundings over the beautifully clear waters, this is a true specimen of excellent Britush architectural excellence.

Surya Sen Park: Located in Mahakal Pally, this is one of the most popular picnic spot. This is an eco friendly zone and was developed to make people aware about preserving environment and educate about alternative energy sources. There is a bust statue of Surya Sen in the park. The picturesque ambience here with majestic landscapes makes the park perfect for tourists.

ISKCON: The temple for International Society for Krishna Consciousness is in dedication to Lord Krishna. Managed by Hari Krishna Movement, it has idols of Lord Narasimha, Radha, Lord Krishna and it is resplendent with its marbled tiled flooring.

Science Centre: Located in the northern part of Siliguri. It has a collection of scientific experiments and well equipped gadgets, a nature Interpretation centre showing the diverse flora and fauna found here.

Madhuban Nature Park: An initiative by the Indian Army, it is beautifully maintained Park and is a perfect picnic spot. Rabbit, Deer, Peacocks etc are found here apart from beautiful and vide variety of butterflies.

Mahananda Weir Wildlife Sanctuary: A lovely patch of green forestland between the Teesta and Mahananda Rivers, it is full of dense Bushes and thick trees. Sambar, Elephant, Indian Bison, Fishing Cat , Barking Deer and cheetal are some of the animals fond here in abundance. It is also a great destination for trekkers offering various trekking routes.

Chapramari Wildlife Sanctuary: One of the Oldest Indian Sanctuaries, located in Dooars alongside River Murti, this was declared a sanctuary in 1998. It is home to mixed dry forests with Sal, Shishu, Teak and Shirish Trees apart from beautiful Orchids are found here. Indian Bison, Indian Elephant, Cheetal, barking Deer, Pangolin etc are the main animals found here and The adjutant Stork, Green Pigeon, Indian Treepie and Green Magpie are the main birds found here. There is an observation tower here and also a tribal village.

Savin Kingdom: A tourist spot mainly for amusement and entertainment, it is a beautiful spot with great scenic beauty. Ensconced amidst Tea Plantation, it has large playgrounds and is also a favored picnic spot.

Umrao Singh Boat Club: Located at a place called Sukna, this boat club is maintained by Indian Army. The boat club offers boating on  various types of boats like paddled boat and engine boats and is a place to enjoy and relax.