Amritsar - The City of Golden Temples

AMRITSAR

Amritsar literally meaning “Pool of Nectar”, historically also known as Ramdaspur and colloquially as Ambarsar, derives its name from Amrit Sarovar, the holy tank that surrounds the fabulous Golden Temple. There is no recorded history as to the origin of the city, however it is believed that the city’s origin lies in the lake founded by the fourth Sikh Guru, Ram Das in 1574 at a community land lying between the village of Sultanwind, Tung, Gumtala and Gilwali. There is neither clarity nor any documentary evidence, as to how the land came into possession of these Sikh gurus. The most popular opinion is that Guru Ram das purchased it for INR 700 from the Zamindar of the village on the instruction of Emperor Akbar; others say that it was granted to the Sikh Guru by Emperor Akbar, or it was presented as Gift by the villagers to the revered Sikh Guru out of regard. The land came to be known as Guru Da Chak or Chakk Ram Das pura.

It is believed that Guru Amardas chalked out the original plan for this new city and instructed Guru Ram Das for execution. On his instruction, he founded the land in the village and constructed his own house. Some of the experienced elderly Sikhs also joined him and founded the beginnings of the city. First of all a boundary line of the settlement was drawn and the construction of the new centre was started with great enthusiasm, it was named Ram das Pura. As instructed the excavation of the tank was started. The tank was named Santokhsar.  Later on the instruction of Guru Amar Das, another tank was constructed at a low level area surrounded by Jujube Trees, near the first tank. Many Sikh devotees came to participate in the construction of the tank. Simultaneously the village was also developed with the settlement of 52 types of caste group from Patti, Kasur and Kalanaur. A market, which is now known as Guru Ka Bazaar, was established to ensure regular supply of essential commodities to the settlers. Some wells were dug for water supply .A number of rich bankers and traders also settled down in the town.  The tank was finally completed in 1577, but not before the death of Guru Ramdas at Goindwal.  On the completion of the project, the Guru called the local business community and told them to take charge of the holy place but they humbly pleaded their inability to perform religious duties and requested the Guru to engage some Brahmins and mendicants for the job. The second tank named Amrit Sarovar later gave the name of Amritsar to the new city. Amrit Sarovar remained unbricked till Guru Arjan Dev ascended the Guru Gaddi in 1581. The tanks side stairs were bricked. The Gurus instructed their disciples to take bath in the tank and meditate. Gradually the tank acquired a reputation of sanctity and became the headquarters of the Sikhs.

The city of Amritsar, also known as mukut-mani (Jewel of the crown)of the Punjab is  a dazzling showcase of composite culture and secular heritage .It has a proud past .a glorious present and a promising future  A rich repository of spiritual and national heritage, It has been hailed as the home of all virtues’(sifti da ghar) .while praying, every devout Sikh longs to be blessed with a pilgrimage to Amritsar and a holy bath at the Golden Temple . A visit to Amritsar and holy dip at the tank is believed to wash off all the sins.

Amritsar is easily accessible by road, railways and flight. It boasts of International airport with direct flights to United Kingdom and connecting flights to many other destinations in the world. It Is easily accessible by train from Delhi.

Things to see in Amritsar:

Sri Harminder Sahib a.k.a  Golden Temple Complex

One of the most sacred of Sikhs Temple, where every Sikh wish to visit one day, Sri Harmandir Sahib, also known as Sri Darbar Sahib or Golden Temple literally means “TheTemple of God (Hari means God, Amd Mandir means temple.). The dome of this three story structure is covered in Gold earning it the English name of Golden Temple.

Guru Arjan Sahib, the Fifth Nanak, conceived the idea of creating a central place of worship for the Sikhs and chose the sight of Amar Sarovar, which was already a popular tank for Sikhs for a Holy bath. He himself designed the architecture of Sri Harmandir Sahib.Guru Arjan Sahib got its foundation laid by a muslim saint Hazrat Mian Mir ji of Lahore on 1st of Magh, 1645 Bikrmi Samvat(December,1588). The construction work was directly supervised by Guru Arjan Sahib himself and he was assisted by the prominent Sikh personalities like Baba Budha ji, Bhai Gurdas ji, Bhai Sahlo ji and many other devoted Sikhs. The building work was completed in 1601 A.D. on Bhadoon Sudi 1st, 1661 Bikrmi Samvat (August/September, 1604). On completion of the Building , Guru Arjan Dev installed the newly created Holy book, Guru Granth Sahib  and appointed Baba Budha ji as its first Granthi i.e. the reader of Guru Granth Sahib. Soon the temple attained the status of ‘Ath Sath Tirath, a pilgrimage centre for Sikhs.

Sri Harmandir Sahib, is built on a 67ft. square platform at the centre of the Amar Sarovar(tank). The temple itself is 40.5ft. square. Harminder Sahib is built at a lower level unlike the Hindu Temples which are always built on a higher level. Also unlike Hindu Temples having only one gate for the entrance and exit, Guru Sahib got it open from four sides with a a door each on the East, West, North and South, signifying its access to to every person without any distinction of Caste, creed, sex and religion. 

The entrance to Harmnider Sahib is through the 202 feet long and 21 feet wide arch, standing at the shore end of the causeway and known as The Darshani Deori. The door frame of the arch is about 10ft in height and 8ft 6inches in breath. The door panes are decorated with artistic style. It opens on to the causeway or bridge that leads to the main building of Sri Harmandir Sahib. The bridge takes you to the 13 feet wide ‘Pardakshna’ (circumambulatory path) which runs round the main shrine and leads to the ‘Har ki Paure’ (steps of God). On the first floor of ‘Har ki Paure’, there is continuous reading of Guru Granth Sahib.

The main structure of Sri Harmandir Sahib, is a three storied one, the front, which faces the bridge, is decorated with repeated cusped arches.  The roof of the first floor is at the height of the 26 feet and 9 inches, at the top of which  4 feet high parapet rises on all the sides having  four ‘Mamtees’ on the four corners. Exactly on the top of the central hall of the main sanctuary rises the third story, which comprises a small square room and have three gates. A regular recitation of Guru Granth Sahib is also held there.

On the top of this room stands the low fluted ‘Gumbaz’(dome) having lotus petal motif in relief at the base inverted lotus at the top which supports the ‘Kalash’ having a beautiful ‘Chhatri’ at the end. Harminder Sahib got all the gold and exquisite marble work, under the patronage of Hukam Singh Chimni and Emperor Ranjit Singh, Maharaja of the Sikh Empireof the Punjab. The gold plating on the Harmandir Sahib was begun by Maharaja Ranjit Singh and was finished in 1830. The temple architecture shows unique blend of Hindu and Muslim way of construction has created an independent Sikh school of architecture in the history of art in India.

The Golden Temple complex has more to offer than Harminder Sahib, the following important places should be visited within the temple complex:

Akal Takht

The highest seat of the Sikh authority, the Akal Takht, built by Guru Hargovind in the year 1609 stands pretty opposite to the marbled Darshni Deorhi of Sri Harminder Sahib. Shri Hargovind was the sixth guru of the Sikhs who made immense contribution to popularize the religion. Akal Takht stands at a place which was once a play ground where the sixth Guru as a child used to spend time with his playmates.It was here that he was established as the Guru after his father - Guru Arjan Dev's death. Guru Hargovind used to supervise the young Sikhs practicing their warfare exercises in the same spot. Later he decided to build the imposing Akal Takht at that site. The Akal Takhat was used for holding court and Sikh congregations in the days of its builder. The ground floor of the present building was constructed in 1 874. Three storeys were subsequently added by Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Later Han Singh Nalwa constructed the Golden Dome. The traditional arms and weapons used by the earlier Gurus and Sikh warriors are displayed every evening at the Akal Takht.

Baba Atal

At and imposing height of 108ft. , this one of its kind -09 storey toere was built between 1778 and 1784 in Atal Rai (D. 1628), a son of Guru Hargobind, who died at age of nine. He was called 'Baba' (an old man) head over young shulders.

The other notable things to visit within the temple complex includes

(a) Dukh Bhanjni Ber (sacred Jujube Tree) 

(b)Thara Sahib

(c) Ber Baba Budha Ji (sacred Jujube Tree) 

(d) Gurdwara llachi Ber (sacred Jujube Tree) 

(e) Ath Sath Tirath (Sixty eight holy places condensed into one) &

(f) Gurdwara Shaheed Bunga Baba Deep Singh. 

Central Sikh Museum

The complex has the Central Sikh Museum, whih has paintings of Sikh Gurus, Saints, Sikh warriors and other prominent Sikh leaders who have in their own way contributed a lot to the enhancement of Sikh Religion

Guru Ka Langar

A Sikh temple without a Community Kitchen is inconceivable. Cooked food comprising of Flat Indian Bread and Lentil is served in the kitchen of the Harmandir Sahib 24 hours to all visitors irrespective of religion, caste, creed and nationality. The expenses are met out of the Temple funds. Approximately 40,000 visitors share the meals everyday presently.

Accommodation at Harminder Sahib

The complex in its premises offers free accommodaton as well as accommodation at very nominal rents too. The following accommodation is available within the temple complex:

 SRI GURU RAM DAS NIWAS is a free hostel for the pilgrims maintained by the Temple authorities and built by the Gurdwara Committee. It has 228 rooms and 18 big halls, and unlike the ordinary 'Daramsalas' it supplies the facilities of free beddings, cots, lights and fans etc. to the lodgers but accommodation is restricted to maximum three nights stay. The doors of the hostels are open to all. The lodgers however must not do anything repugnant to the teachings of Sikhism. 

GURU NANAK NIWAS offers 66 Rooms -22 with attached baths and 44 without baths. For the 44 rooms each floor has been provided with 10 common bath rooms and ten flush latrines so as to make stay comfortable. 

AKAL REST HOUSE offers 26 rooms with double beds and attached bath rooms on a nominal Rent. 

GURU HARGOBIND NIWAS offers 92 double bed rooms with attached bath in addition to four halls. Rooms are available at Rs. 50/- per day.

Atari Border (Wagah Border from Pakistan Side)

28 kms from Amritsar, India and 25 kms from Lahore Pakistan, located in Atari village, wagah border is only one of the passage which is open between India and Pakistan. The border place comprises of a huge arch and has gates of both the countries.It witnesses the bitter sweet relationship between India and Pakistan every day, through the famous beating retreat ceremony conducted here every evening, which includes the closing of international gates and the lowering of the flags of both the countries.

The flag code of India mandates that the national flag shall be flown only from sunrise to sunset and must be lowered in the evening, folded and kept with respect to be flown again the next day. The lowering of flag and the change of guard is done through the beating retreat ceremony, first started in 1959 on agreement between the two governments to increase the goodwill between the two countries, involves soldier marching a perfect drill to bring down the flag, on both sides of the border, the patriotic fervor running high on both sides. The guards on both sides of the border, who perform are chosen carefully among those who have great height, ability to perform and imposing stature.

The ceremony lasts for 45 minutes and is carried out before sunset. 4:15 pm is the time during winter and 4:45 during summer. The border gate is open from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm. However, the ceremony starts only after 4:00 pm. It is ideal to reach Wagah border by 3:00 pm to watch the ceremony. Around 5000 people come to see the ceremony every day; Seating arrangements are made for spectators to watch the ceremony. Exclusive seats are reserved for women. General seating is allowed only for men. There is also a VIP seating close to the gate and requires a special pass. The border post have jammers installed so mobile phones does not work here, no covered bags are allowed to be taken, which included ladies purses and bags, stall are available nearby to buy food and water. There are no entry fees neither a ticket needs to be purchased to watch the ceremony.

Jallianwala Bagh

Jallianwala Bagh once a non descrepit garden enclosed by stone walls from all sides, was used for the public meetings in pre independence era, but it all changed on April 13, 1919, the day of the traditional and joyous festival of Baisakhi, when General Dyer ordered open firing on a group of 10000 to 15000 people who have gathered there to silently protest against the atrocities of the British empire on Indians. An hour after the meeting began as scheduled at 16:30, Dyer arrived with a group of sixty-five Gurkha and twenty-five Baluchi soldiers, blocked the narrow exits and ordered his troops to fire towards the densest section of the crowds which included women, children and men. The firing continued for around 10 minutes, killing about a 1000 people (British official figures were 369 people), many of whom jumped in the local well to save themselves.

Since then it has become a symbol of the independence struggle, a place of great significance, sorrow and historical tragedy.  Exactly 42 years after the date of tragedy, a memorial designed by an American Architecht, Mr Benjamin Polk was built and open to public in 1961, after an inauguration by the then President of India Dr. Rajendra Prasad, A lantern made of stone is lit on all four sides of the monument with words of homage encrypted to salute the sacrifice of the martyrs.

People can visit the garden on all seven days of the week. The timings of the visits are from 6:00 am to 9:00 pm in the summer and 7:00 am to 8:00 pm in the winter.

Durgiana Temple

More famous for its strikingly similar structure to the Golden Temple, Durgiana Temple, dedicated to Goddess Durga, is an important pilgrimage sight for Hindu’s. It is also known as the Laxmi narayanTemple, located near the Lohagarh Gate, just 1-5 kms from the railway station. The city of Amritsar is considered pious by Hindu’s as it is believed to be visited by Lord Rama, at the time of Ashavmegh Yagh. Lov & Kush spent their childhood alongwith their mother Mata Sita at the Ashram of Maharishi Balmiki at Ram Tirath King Ishvaku Grandson of Surya Devta performed a number of Yagyas on this land. The Temple complex dates bac k to the 16^th century, the oldest temple being the Durga Temple also known as Mata Shitla Mata Temple. The temple complex have the temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, Satya Narain, where the story of Satya Narain Is recited every poornima, Radha Kishan , Lord Rama and Lord Hanuman, who is believed to visit this place every day.

The main attraction however is the Lakshmi Narayan Mandir, a brain child of Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya, a great Hindu Philosopher and reformist, who conceived It in 1920. With the effort of Guru Harsh Sai Mal Kapoor, the funds were collected and the foundation stone of the Temple was laid on 07^th October 1920, the day of Vijaydashmi. To commemorate the contribution of the Guru, a statue of his is placed in the front of the temple in a sitting posture.

Like Golden Temple, The Durgiana Temple islocated in the middle of pious pond, whose water is believed to have medicinal value. The main gate of the temple is 12ft x 12 ft and is of silver, which leads to  Darshani Deori, to the left and right of which stands the ido;s of Maa Durga and Lord Ganesh. As you approach the main temple through an 18.5mts bridge, you can see the beautiful image of Lord Lakshmi Narayan in standing posture. The Temple’s central dome as well as the four smaller corner domes is Gold plated, all gates, totaling 09 are of Silver.

There is a Langar Bhavan, where Langar (Free meal) is served to the devotees in the afternoon and evening. Prayers are conducted in the temple, 05 times a day as per Hindu ritual. A Gyan Katha Bhawan is also there within the complex, which is used for religious discourses.

Gobingarh Fort

Originally known as Bhangian Da Kila, Gobindgarh fort of Amritsar was built by the army of Gujjar Singh Bhangi of Mislin in 1760. The fort was constructed with brick and lime in a square pattern with a parameter of 1500sq mt, two majestic gates, four large bastions and well defined rampart armed with 25 cannons. The two gates are names as Nalwa Gate, after the Great Sikh Soldier and Keelar Gate. It is believed that, from the keelar Gate, a secret passage was linked to Lahore Tunnel, however there are no evidence which have been collected for the same.

In 1805-06, the fort was taken over by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, often referred to as the Lion of Punjab. Maharaja Ranjit with the help of Jodh Singh strengthened the fortification of the fort in order to keep his treasures and treaties in safety including the Kohinoor Diamond. He also added a moat to surround the fort and added numerous bastions.

The British authorities undertake Gobindgarh fort in 1849. They added the Darbar Hall, Hawa Mahal and the Phansi Ghar to the fort. Later October 1948, the Indian army took control of the fort and they are still maintaining it.

Ram Bagh

Named after the 04^th Spiritual Guru and founder of Amritsar, Guru Ram Das, Ram Bagh is a beautiful garden which was once spread over 84acres and enclosed with 14 ft high wall. After Sikh Ruler Mahraja Ranjit Singh took over Lahore in 1799, he made Amritsar his capital in 1802. Later in 1818, he got this garden constructed on the pattern of Shalimar Bagh of Lahore, under the command of Fakeer Azeez-ud-din and Sardars Lehna Singh and Desa Singh Majithia (the nobles of Lahore darbar). It stands out for its collection of rare coniferous trees, herbal plants and water channels set with fountains and golden fish. In the centre of the garden, a double story palace with basement was constructed and this palace is known as the summer palace of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Today, the summer palace of Ranjit Singh has been converted into a museum, which is rich with traditional items.The museum boasts of an exclusive display of antique weapons dating back to the Mughal times, portraits of ruling houses of Punjab and a replica of diamond "Kohinoor". In the earlier days, the garden was approached by a huge fortified gate, which exists even today. However, it is placed on the periphery of the garden today. At one end of the garden, one can see a lively statue of the king seated on a horse.

There is just a nominal charge to enter into the garden. It is open to tourists every day except for Wednesdays.

Jama Masjid Khairuddin:

Located in the Hall Bazaar area, the mosque Built by Mohd. Khairuddin in 1876, is both religiously important as well as an architectural marvel. The Masjid is equally important historically as it is the same place from where a call against the British rule was given by Tootie-e-Hind, Shah Attaullah Bukhari.

Mata Temple

Mata Lal Devi Temple, modeled on the famous Hindu Shrine of Mata Vaishno Devi is not an architectural marvel for its structure, but its interiors are equally fascinating. Famous for its fertility improving powers.This Hindu Temple commerates 20^th century female saint Lal Devi. From the main hall, a narrow series of stairways and passages winds past mirrored mosaics, fairground-style carvings, and untold deity statues to a semi-submerged mock-up of the Vasihno Devi cave temple. The liberal use of mirror in decorating the interiors has given it a sobriquet of “Sheesh Mahal”. The elaborate mirror work and vivid spectrum of colors offers a visual retreat to the visitors. Mata Lal Devi is believed to weild special powers to grant the wish of the people, who want to start the family, by bestowing them with fertility powers. It is believed that anyone who wishes for a child here gets their wish fulfilled soon. The temple is located at Rani Ka Bagh and is open from morning 0500 hrs till 2300 hrs, entry is free for all.

The Historical Banyan Tree (Shaheedi Bohr):

This historical tree with massive girth and lushgreen canopy stands majestically in the Namdhari Shaheedi Samark against the majestic back drop of the northern boundary of Ram Bagh.Four Kookas were hanged from this tree by the British Government in 1871 because they had reacted violently against the hawking of beef around the Golden Temple.

EXCURSION FROM AMRITSAR

Ram Tirath (11kms)

A place of immense importance for the follower of Hinduism, Ram Tirath located 11 kms west of Amritsar on Chogawan road, is believed to date back to the period of Ramayana, and is believed to be the place where Rishi Valmiki’s hermitage was. It is also believed that Luv & Kush were born here; a hut still exists to mark the site. Rishi Valmiki’s hut and the well with stairs where Mata Sita used to take her bath still exist. The place has an ancient tank and many temples. The Bedis of Punjab (Guru Nanak Dev, the founder Prophet of Sikhism was a Bedi) trace their descent from Kush and Sodhis (the 10th Prophet of Sikhism, Guru Gobind Singh was a Sodhi) from Luv. A four day fair, is held here starting on the full moon night in November.

Pul Kanjari: (35kms)

Enroute to Wagah border, about 35kms away from the Amritsar Railway station and 5kms from the Border, UNESCO world heritage sight of Pul Kanjari stands on the Amritsar Lahore road, near the villages of Daoka and Dhanoa Kalan. Pul Kanjari was built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh and was used by him as a resting place, during his journey between Amritsar and Lahore. The legend has it that the village was named after a pul (bridge) that was built by the king for a dancer Moran. Moran hailed from the nearby village of Makhanpur, to reach her village , she has to cross a small canal linked to river Ravi, which was built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in order to irrigate Shalimar Gardens of Lahore. The canal did not have a proper bridge. One of the days, while returning from the royal court and passing through the canal, the dancer lost her silver sandals, which were presented to her by the Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Anguished by her loss, she refused to perform at the court of Mahraja. When Maharaja came to know of it, he immediately ordered the construction of this bridge. Since the court dancers were not a respected lot, they were referred to as “Kanjari”, hence bridge got named as Pul Kanjari.

Ruins of a magnificent fort, an impressive baoli can be found here apart from the remnants of a temple, a Gurudwara and a Mosque, which bespeak of the secular outlook of Maharaja Ranjit Singhji. Theinside of the cornor dome of the baoli is decorated with the paintings of a number of scenes and sights from the Hindu scriptures and the Raj darbar, each frescoe laced with floral frame. Now renovated and preserved by by The Ministry of Tourism, Govt. of India and Govt. of Punjab, the Pul Kanjari complex contains The Mosque, Baradari –the house of Maharaja Ranjit Singh with 12 doors, a Sarovar – originally a store house for the water from the nearby canal, it has been converted into a pool to bathe with separate arrangements for gents and ladies, and a Shiv Temple –located on the right side of the memorial, is made of Nanakshahi Bricks and is decorated with beautiful frescoe work

Samadhi of Guru Angad Dev Ji: (30kms)

About 30 km south east from Amritsar, and within easy reach from Goindwal Sahib is a Samadhi of the second Guru. It was built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1815 A.D.

Khoo Kalyanwala: 

In 1857, during the first Rebellion against the British in 1857, On the call of Mangal Pandey a platoon of 400 soldier stationed at Lahore rebelled against the British Government by fleeing their barracks. The deserted soldiers bravely swam across the flooded Ravi and reached Ajnala. However they were captured at Ajnala, and on the orders of Mr.Fredric Cooper, the then Deputy Commissioner of Amritsar, put in a coop-like room where almost 200 soldiers died of asphyxia. The rest of them were brutally shot dead the next morning and their dead bodies thrown in the well which came to be known as the Kalianwala Khoo in Tehsil Ajnala.

Samadhi of Shravan:

About 6 Kilometres from Ajnala near Jastarwal (earlier known as Dashrathwal), belonging to the Ramayana period, a Samadhi believed to be of the legendary Shravan (Shravan had taken his blind parents on a wide-ranging pilgrimage by cradling them on his shoulder in a wooden device.)is located. It is believed that Shravan was buried here after the fell from the arrow of King Dashrath, the Lord of Ayodhya. The Samadhi is situated on the banks of an old rivulet (Purani Dhab).

Taran Taran Sahib

Tarn Taran Saheb is a city that was founded by Shri Guru Anjan Dev, the fifth Sikh Guru. He had also laid the foundation of Tarn Taran Sahib Temple. Tarn Taran was later declared as a district and it has the largest percentage of Sikh population in Punjab. It has many gurudwaras, most popular being the Gurudwara Darbar Sahib. Apart from Gurudwara Darbar Sahib, other important places in this district incudes Gurudwara Bir Buddha Sahib, Goindwal Sahib, Khadur Sahib and Harike Wetland and bird sanctuary, Faridkot fort etc.