Friday, October 26, 2012

Gangtok - A base for Great Excursions



Gangtok, is the beautiful capital of the beautiful state of Sikkim. It offers travellers various sites, gardens and monasteries to visit within the city itself, but apart from the same, it gives a lot of opportunities for great excursions around the various parts of Sikkim. It an important circuit for exploring west and North Sikkim including visits to Pelling, Yuksom, Yumthang and Lachen or Lachung, all easily accessible from Gangtok

The following are the places which can be explored by short excursions from Gangtok.

Changu Lake Or Tsomgo Lake

Driving a distance of 38 kms through a winding road amongst rugged mountain terrain and sharp cliffs, situated at an altitude of 12400 feet, you reach Changu Lake or Tsomgo Lake, which is a sight to behold. Tsomgo literally meaning Source of the Water in Bhutia language, the lake derives its water from melting of the snow from the surrounding snow clad mountains and its glaciers. The lake looks different in different seasons with the color of water changing. In winter it is a picture of white screen with the top crust of the Lake being frozen, wile in the spring, the profusion of flowers in the bloom adds a riot of the colors on the surface of the lake. Many myths and legends are associated with the lake and is revered by the Sikkimese as sacred. It is believed that in olden times, Buddhist monks would study the colour of the water of the lake to forecast the future.The lake is also of special significance for the Jhakris [faith healers] of Sikkim who congregate here annually on Guru Purnima, which coincides with the festival of Raksha Bandhan, from all over the state to offer prayers.For the tourist the visit to the lake is an mesmerizing experience. Rides on colourfully decorated yaks and mules are available at the lake site, apart from presence of a variety of eating stalls serving snacks and beverages. Snowboots and gumboots are available on hire.
Tsomgo lake is open for both Indian and foreign nationals, however foreign visitors cannot travel alone, they have to be in a group of two or more and need prior visitors permit to be obtained.

Baba Mandir
This temple is particulary famous amongst the India Visitors. Baba Mandir lies on the road between the Nathula and the Jelepla Pass is believed to have a wish fulfilling powers and is visited by hundreds of people each day. The origin of temple and the legends and myths surrounding it are not very old, About 40 years back, Sepoy Harbhajan Singh of the 23rd Punjab Regiment went missing while leading a pack of mules from his battalion stationed at Tukla to Deng Dhukla, both remote areas located in East Sikkim. A manhunt was launched to locate him by the army and it took three days to locate his  body. It is believed that he himself directed the soldiers to the site of his body.  Soon after, soldiers in the regiment started reporting that Baba is appearing in their dreams and directing them to build a shrine in his memory. Accordingly a Samadhi was raised in his memory where He is worshipped as a saint who grants boons and guards the lives of soldiers posted along the border.. His believers say that even today Baba visits every night, puts on his uniform and does his rounds.Each year in September Baba takes his annual holiday when he travels back to Kapurthala, his hometown. People gather in large numbers and line the route that Baba used to take to offer flowers and prayers. A berth on a train is reserved in his name and two orderlies accompany him on the journey.
Baba Mandir is open for Indian Nationals only, The foreign nationals are not allowed to visit Baba Mandir.

Seven Sisters Waterfalls
A beutiful scene of water falling from the hill top creating a beautiul waterfall. It is located 32 kms away from Gangtok on the National Highway leading to North Sikkim. A place must visit for the nature lover and shutterbugs.

Saramsa Garden
Established and maintained by the Department of Forests, lying about 14kms from Gangtok, Saramsa Garden is an excellent recreation, leisure and picnic spot. A musical fountain and a swimming pool have been recently added.. The Garden was the venue for the International Flori Show 2008. It also have a beautiful Convention Center for Meetings, Incentives, Conventions and Exhibitions (MICE) with a sitting capacity of 500 and all modern facilities. Meetings and Exhibitions can be held here in an eco-friendly peaceful environment.

Phodang Monastery
Located approx 38kms from city of Gangtok, Phhodang Monastery is one of the six major monasteries of Sikkim, belonging to the Kagyut Order.The Phodong Monastery was built in the 18th century by Chogyal Gyurmed Namgyal. Although the original monastery has been rebuilt , the old mural paintings and frescoes were preserved during reconstruction. An annual folk dance festival called Chaam is celebrated  on the 28th and 29th day of the tenth month of the Tibetan calendar. Travelling further beyond the Phodang Monastery, after a distance of 04 kms , you can alsi visit  the recently renovated Labrang Monastery, unique in-its architectural design.Between Phodong and Labrang Monastery are the ruins of the third capital of Sikkim, Tumlong

Phensang Monastery :
Situated on the gentle slope stretching from Kabi to Phodong on one of the best landscapes in the region, The Phensang Monastery, under the Nyingmapa Buddhist Order, was built in 1721 during the time of ]igmee Pawo. It was gutted by a fire in 1947 and rebuilt in 1948 through the efforts of the lamas. The annual festival of Chaam is performed on the 28th and 29th days of the tenth month of Lunar Calendar (Tibetan Calendar).

Pal Zurmang Kagyud Monastery ( Lingdum)
Located at Lingdum, East Sikkim is at a distance of about 20 kms from Gangtok, Pal Zurmang Kagyud Monastery is a place worth visiting for its religious and exquisite architecture and serene atmosphere . The present Gharwang Rimpoche is the 12th Successive incarnation of the glorious emanation of Zurmang Gharwang.

Menmecho Lake
Located at an altitude of 13000 feet, about a  distance of 64 kms from Gangtok via Sherathang (6 kms short of famous Nathula Pass) one comes across a marvellous snow fed water body called Menmecho Lake .It is surrounded by lush green forest and typical reddish alpine grass cover and the source of the river Rangpochu, it is larger in size than Tsomgo lake and it is full of trout fish. Amongst its calm and quiet atmosphere and rare beauty, one can spend hours in splendid isolation.

Gonjang Monastery:
Located  near Tashi View Point, Gonjang Monastery was established in the year 1981. The founder H.E. Tingkye Gonjang Rimpoche  was recognised as an incarnation of Yolmo Terton Ngakchang Shakya Zangpo, a 15th century Nyingmapa Terton. The monastery follows Jangter tradition of Nyingmapa school of Tibeten Buddhism.

Bakthang :
Located 20 minutes drive from Gangtok along the 31 A National Highway leading to North Sikkim, Bakthang Water Falls, .originates from Ratey Chu, the main water source of Gangtok area. Its an interesting site to visit for Shutterbergs and people in love of nature.

Aritar Lake
For trekkers and Nature Lovers, Aritar Lake (Ghati-Tso) near Rhenock, about 3 hours drive from Gangtok, is worth visiting. If you are  interested in spending a night or two in the peaceful environment, trekker's huts, lodges and a private resort are available. Apart from the trekking, you can indulge in boating, visiting and exploring the lifestyle of villagers and also visit to the Lingsay Monastery and a Manghim. A short trek in and around Aritar is a thrilling experience. You can also have an enthralling experience of spending a night in an old British built Bunglow of 1895 located half km below the lake

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Gangtok -The heart of Sikkim



Gangtok,the present capital of Indian State of Sikkim, lies at an altitude of 5800 feet ( 1800mts) amongst some of the higher range of Himalayan.The earliest records date from the construction of the hermitic Gangtok monastery in 1716. Gangtok, Roughly meaning "Mountain Top" shot in prominence on the Map, especially for Buddhist, in 1840, when Enchey Monastery was built here. Its prominence further rose when in 1894, the ruling Sikkimese Chogyal, Thutob Namgya, shifted his capital to Gangtok from Tumlong.New Palaces and Government Buildings were built which added to the reputation and beauty of Gangtok. Later it developed as a major stopover for traders on the trade route from Lhasa in Tibet to Kolkata and other Indian cities. When India won independence in 1947, from British rule, Sikkim chose to remain as an Independent state under the king, but in 1975, fearing a takeover by China, who had already annexed Tibet, it merged with India to become its 22nd state with Gangtok its 22nd state capital.

Since then Sikkim in general and Gangtok in particular have grown to become a bustling tourist destination, particularly famous between he honeymooners and travelers from adjoining state of West Bengal and is the centre stage of tourism in Sikkim, India. Its moderate temperature (ranging from 4 degrees to 25 degrees) through out the year makes the weather good to travel. However beginning end of June and till September, heavy rainfall lashes the area causing many a landslides making the weather of Sikkim a bit harsh ,but it is also the time when the lush green vegetation and the playing of clouds with sun, creating a vibrant play of shadows and light, leaves one mesmerized by the sheer beauty of the place.The city lies towards one side of the hill, flanked by two streams in east and west, namely Roro Chu and Ranikhola. The two rivers divide natural drainage into two parts, the eastern and western parts. Both the streams then meet the Ranipul and flow south as the main Ranikhola before joining the River Teesta at Singtam.The city is surrounded by densely forested regions consisting of temperate, decidous forests of trees like poplar, birch , oak and elm apart from evergreen confierous tree of the wst alpine zone. Orchids are common apart from other flowers like sunflower, marigold and poinsetta, which bloom around the city. Some of the rarest form of Orchids are found here.

Gangtok has a population of around 01 lakh people comprising of ethnic groups such as Indian Nepalis, Lepchas which are native to the land, Bhutias and Tibetans. It also have a sizable immigrant population of Marwaris ( who owns most of the shops), Biharis (engaged mostly in blue collar jobs) and Bengalis. Hinduism and Buddhism are the two most popular religions, but Gangtok too have a sizeable population of Christian and small minority of Muslims. English and Hindi are official language of Sikkim, apart from the above, Bhutla, Tibetan and Lepcha are also spoken widely.

Sikkim in itself is beautiful state blessed with beautiful valleys, mountain tops and lakes. Gangtok makes the perfect base for exploring Sikkim. Gangtok in itself have so much to offer to visit, that you require more than a couple of days to explore the same and it is one of the pivotal of Sikkim Tourism. Some of the places worth visiting Gangtok are mentioned below:

Gangtok - The City - MG Marg is country's first litter and spit free zone, with a ban on any kind of vehicular movement. It offers various shopping establishment to shop, various benches to sit alongside the road and Titanic Park - a beautiful park to picnic. A birds eye view of Gangtok city can be had through a ride on Bicable Zig Back ropeway from Deorali to Tashiling secretariat. Costing INR 30 and about 07 minutes, it gives a great view of Kanchendzonga Range and an overview of the Gangtok town below.

The Rumtek Monastery : The Rumtek monastery is a replica of the Tsurphu monastery of Kargyupa sect in Kham region of Tibet .It was founded in 1740 during the reign of the fourth Chogyal in the East District.After Chinese aggression and control over Tibet in 1960's, His Holiness the Gyalwa Karmapa, the 16th incarnate of the Gyalwa Karmapa of Tibet came to Rumtek with a number of follower monks to seek refuge. The then Chogyal gifted him a large piece of land at Rumtek village to build a monastery and also develop a centre for religious studies.Accordingly the four storeyed building was built, it later became the biggest monastery of Sikkim.

The monastery has a special prayer hall, very impressive murals and thanka paintings and 1001 miniature golden images of Lord Buddha. It has a religious centre by the name of Dharma Chakra Centre and a big residential-cum prayer hall, apart froman impressive library and special rooms for the high ranking incarnate Lamas.Behind the main monastery is an extremely impressive and elaborately decorated Karma Nalanda Institute of Buddhist Studies, wherein students from all over the world are enrolled. There is also a small hall having a beautiful jewel studded Chorten known as the Golden Stupa, which contains the ashes and remains of His Holiness, the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa.

Do Drul Chorten : The Do-Drul Chorten or Stupa was built in 1945 by the Venerable Trullshi Rimpoche, head of the Nyingma order of Tibeten Buddhism. Inside the stupa, there are complete mandala set of Dorjee phurba (Vajra Kilaya), a set of Kang Gyur relic (Holy Book), complete 'Zung' (mantras) and other religious objects. Around the Chorten, there are 108 Mani Lhakor (Prayer Wheels), which are turned by devout Buddhists while chanting 'Om Mane Padme Hum' (O Jewel in the Lotus) to invoke the Bodhisattva. It is surrounded by Chorten Lakhang and Guru Lakhang, where there are two huge statues of Guru Padmasambhava

Namgyal Research Institute of Tibetology : Namgyal Research Institute of Tibetology is one of the most prestigious research institute of its kind in the world, It is a treasure of vast collection of rare Lepcha, Tibetan and Sanskrit manuscripts, statues and rare Thankas (colourful tapestries used in Buddhist liturgy). Apart from an attractive museum, it has over 200 Buddhist icons and other prized objects of art. Established in 1958 to promote serious study and research on Buddhism, it is only next to an institute in Tibet in its collections.Today it is renowned world wide centre for study of Buddhist philosophy and religion.

Enchey Monastery: Enchey monastery is the seat of the Nyingma Order and city's oldest monastery . The two-hundred year old baroque monastery houses images of gods, goddesses, and other religious artifacts. The Enchey monastery literally means the solitary temple. In the month of January, the Chaam, or masked dance, is performed with great fanfare and is an event to visit.

Tashi View Point : Only 8 kms from Gangtok, situated along the North Sikkim Highway, it is from this point one can get a breath taking view of Mt. Khangchendzonga, one of the most graceful peaks in the world. An Observatory Tower, Cafeteria and Public amenities are present for the comfort of the travellers. Ideal time to visit is early in the morning, when the views are most spectacular. One can also catch a glimpse of the Phodang and Labrang monasteries on the opposite hill. The park just above the View Point gives you opportunity for a little picnic.

Tashiding Monastery (Tashi Ling Monastery) :
Constructed on top of a heart shaped hill with the back drop of the sacred Mt. Khangchendzonga, Tashiding Monastery was built in the 18th Century AD by Ngadak Sempa Chempo, one of the three Lamas who had performed the consecration ceremony of the first Chogyal.According to Buddhist scriptures, in 08th century AD, Guru Padmasambhava, blessed the sacred land of Sikkim in the 8th century AD from this spot. Tashiding is also famous for the most holy Chorten known as 'Thong-WaRang-Dol' literally meaning 'Saviours by mere sight'. It is believed that just by beholding the pot; it is supposed to wash away all the sins of the devotees. Another important feature is the sacred water festival (Bumchu) held every year, on 14th and 15th day of the first Lunar month, the Bhumchu Ceremony is organised with devotees coming from far and near to get the blessing of the holy water. The sacred holy water is officially sealed for safety by the lamas of the Monastery and taken out once a year on an auspicious occasion, only to be put back with some fresh additions. The Pot Have never got dried for the Past 300 years

Hanuman Tonk : Situated at an altitude of 7200 feet, 09 kms uphill of Gangtok on a calm and quiet hilltop, this temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman is popularly known as a wish filling temple. It is currently maintained by the resident units of Indian Army with the contribution from Local People.

The Himalayan Zoological Park: The Himalayan Zoological Park exhibits the Himalayan Fauna in their natural habitats. The zoo features the Himalayan Black Bear, The Barking Deer, The snow Leopard, The Leopard Cat, Tibetan Wolf, Masked Palm Civet, Red Pandas and the Spotted deer amongst many others.

Orchid Sanctuary: The Orchid Sanctuary is famous for its rare and extensive collection of orchids. The sanctuary’s collection also varies depending on the seasons, still the wide spread orchid sanctuary has almost 454 species of orchid found in Sikkim.

Tsuk La Khang : Tsuk La Khang is a depository of a large collection of scriptures and is the principal place of worship and assembly for the local Buddhists. The Tsuk la Khang is a beautiful and impressive building with mural covered interior, lavishly decorated altars or images of Buddha, bodhisattvas and Tantric deities and fine works of woodcarving. The Tsuk la Khang remains open for the general public and tourists during Losar, the famous dance festival.

How To Reach Gangtok : Gangtok, Sikkim is well Connected to rest of India through air, road and rail. The nearest airport to Gangtok is Bagdogra, Gangtok to Bagdogra is about 3-4 hrs Drive from Gangtok. Bagdogra in turn is connected with direct flights To Delhi, Kolkata and Guwahati. The nearest Railway Station, some three hours drive from Gangtok., is New Jalpaiguri, which is further connected to Delhi, Kolkata and Guwahati.

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Nathdwara - The abode of Lord Shrinathji



Nathdwara - literally meaning Doors to the abode of owner of the world, Lord Shrinathji. Nathdwara is a little explored Gem as a cultural destination, although it is famous religious must visit destination for the followers of Vaishnavite sect. Located about 48 kms from the city of Lake ,Udaipur, on the right bank of Banas River, Nathdwara is famous for the temple of Lord Krishna, in the form of Srinathji.

Nathdwara, as a city and centre of the religious importance for the followers of Lord Krishna, came into existence in 17th century. It is believed that during the oppressive Rule of Mughal King Aurangzeb, who was hell bent on destroying all Hindu Temples, to protect the Idol of Lord Srinathji, which was worshipped at Govardhan Hill near the Pious city of Vrindavan - the play ground of Lord Krishna, it was decided to shift the idol further south. First it was moved to Agra, from where after six months waiting, it was decided to move it further south. While being carried through the state of Rajasthan on a Bullock Cart, as it reached the spot at village Sihad or Sinhad, the wheels of bullock cart in which the idol was being transported sank axle-deep in mud. Even after various efforts it could not be moved any farther. The accompanying priests inferred that this particular place is the Lord's chosen spot to stay at and accordingly, a temple was built there under the rule and protection of the then Maharana Raj Singh of Mewar. Since then it is a significant Vaishnavite Shrine especially for the Pushti Marg OR Vallabh Sampradaya also known as Shuddha Advaita. Vallabh Sampraday was founded by Vallabh Acharya, who is revered mainly by people of Gujarat and Rajasthan. Vitthal Nathji son of Vallabhacharya was the fist to institutionalize the worship of Shrinathji at Nathdwara.

The idol of Shrinathji depicts a 14th century, 7-year old infant  incarnation of Krishna. Legend is that in 1409 AD, near Govardhan Hill on Mathura an image of lord Shrinathji, the mountain lifting form of Krishna, was discovered when a cow worshiped the lord with offerings of milk. Lord Shrinathji symbolizes a form of Lord Krishna, when he lifted the 'Govardhana' (a hill). In this large Blackstone idol, the lord is revealed with his left hand raised and the right is bunged in a fist.  Images of two cows, a snake, a lion, two peacocks and a parrot by the god's head are imprinted on the idol. The idol is treated like a living deity by the priest and they tend to the lord with daily normal function like bathing- dressing meals called "prasad" and the resting times in regular intervals. The idol in itself is decorated with  fine intricately woven shaneels & silk cloth with real original zari and shredded work done upon them along , tones of real jewelers, which are of antique value. The view of the idol (you get to see it only after the parda (curtain) is removed) is a spectacular sight that is simply mesmerizing and dazzling.

The structure of this temple is simple, but the aesthetic appeal of this temple, the religious atmosphere , especially during the Aarti and Shringar when formal prayers with vedic hymns are offered with diya,incense sticks, flowers, fruit and other offerings, while at the background the devotional songs of the demand are sung with local instruments according to the demand of the time and occasion. The festivals of Holi, Diwali and Janmashtmi are celebrated with full gusto, with the idol being specially decorated. A large number of believers visit Nathdwara during this period. Another major festival to be celebrated is  Annakutta ( a festival which marks the occasion of Lord Krishna lifting Goverdhan ( Govardhan) Hill on his little finger).

The temple authorities have about 500 cows and among them; one is regarded as Shrinathji's cow. It is considered that this cow has come from the pedigree that served the lord for centuries. The Temple does not allow entry to foreigners, but the Indian cultural aura can be felt by just visiting the vicinity of the temple.

Shrinathji Temple is not the only thing which Nathdwara had to offer. This small city,is also famous for its 'pichhwai' paintings, handmade terracotta, ivory articles, milk-made sweets and haveli Music. Pichwai Paintings, are a form of paintings on cloth from the school of Nathdwara of Mewar style paintings. The centre of theme for all Pichwai Paintings is Lord Krishna and the incident related to his life. Here Lord Krishna is always depicted in the form of Shrinathji, his childhood incarnation carrying Govardhan Hill on his little finger. Profound use of Gold Color, the image of Krishna with large eyes, broad nose and a heavy body, similar to the features on the idol of Shrinathji is the aspect which separates Pichwai Paintings from others. Pichwai paintings are works of art that are used to adorn the walls of temples, behind the idol. First a rough sketch is made on the starched clothes and natural colors are then filled in the spaces. Traditionally natural colours and brushes made of horse, goat or squirrel hair were used, but now faster and less expensive material have replaced them. The use of pure gold in the paintings adds to their value and charm. For one painting, it may take 3-4 days to just prepare colour from pure gold.Apart From Pichwai Paintings, the artist also produce paintings on the paper, but the predominant theme is Lord Krishna.

Apart from the Pichwai Paintings, it is also famous for classical form of singing, often referred to as Haveli Gharana whose most famous exponent is Pandit Jasraj. Haveli Sangeet is Vaishnava temple music practiced by the 'Pushti Margi Sampradaya.' Nathadwara is the main seat of the Vaishnava devotional cult which created a rich historical tradition of temple-based music. 'Haveli' here is referred to a palace that the deity chooses to live in. If compared to Dhrupad, Haveli Sangeet, as it is known in Rajasthan, Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh, claimed superior resilience as it claimed that Lord Krishna himself was the very audience for its performances. In this school of music every activity revolves around Lord Krishna  and is sung in the form of Kirtans, Bhajans, Samaj Gayan and Bhava Nirtya. It incorporates a fusion of classical and folk music,but the dominant style of singing is still Dhrupad and Dhammar. The temples of Radha Vallabh at Vrindaban, Krishna at Nandgaon, Shri Radha Rani at Barsana, and Sri Nathji at Nathdwara all reverberate with Haveli Sangeet

Nathdwara can be reached by an hour of scenic drive from Udaipur, which further is connected with all major cities in India through Rail, Road and Air. 


Monday, October 22, 2012

Agrasen ki Baoli, Delhi


Delhi is a historical city, with the present day city of Delhi, believed to be the amalgamation of seven different cities built across different centuries including shahjehanabad, Indraprastha, Tughlakabad etc. Each city have their own sets of heritage monuments telling a story of their own and worth a visit. This gives Delhi a multiude of visitable monuments, some of which have become more common, yet some others are left neglected, non publicused and non visited. Agrasen Ki Baoli (also known as  Ugrasen Ki Baoli or Agarsen ki Baoli), believed to be rebuilt in 14the century, is one of the lesser known monuments.

Agrasen Ki Baoli, is nestled among highrise buildings of modern India and is unseen and unheard of many of the people living or working in the vicinity. What used to be lifeline for the water supply in scorching heats of summer once, lies dilapidated and ignored and dried up like other stepwells in India mainly due to the fact that dependence on wells to tap water have evaporated due to the invent of submersible pumps and piped supply, hence no boady need it. Now designated a protected monument by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act of 1958, efforts are being made to rejuvenate it and restore it to its prime glory.

Who built Agrasen Ki Baoli is still a mystery, some stating its origin to Mahraja Agrasen of Mahabharata Epic Period, some believe it was built by a wealthy agarwal family in 14th century. Another theory is that it was built by a wealthy and influential Agrawal merchant of Delhi named Nattal Sahu who was also a minister in the court of King Anang Pal III. The theory is based on inferences taken from Pasanahacariu, The work of Agrawal Poet named Vibudh Shridhar , who wrote it in 1132 AD.

Built over three visible stories,  with some parts completely submerged in the water, It is about 60 mts in length and about 15 mts wide and have around 103 steps.Each story or level is lined with the arched niches, Chambers and pasageways on the both sides. The arches shows a distinct influence of islamic architecture and hence it is believed to be rebuilt in 14th century Tughlaq Era.Tughlaq era influence can also be judged from the presence of a small mosque in the vicinity of the baoli. The walls of this step well is devoid of any sculpture work unlike its more famous cousins, Pipvav ki Baori or step well at Abhaneri. As you take steps down towards the water, the baoli or step  well shrinks in width, you will witness a distinct coolness of the temperature and calmness descending in you. You will hear gurgling sounds of hundred of pigeons and whooshing sounds of wind downstairs, in night the descent an atmosphere might scare you.

Agrasen ki Baoli or the stepwell is Situated on the Hailey road, a 10 minutes walk from the N block of Connaught Place, Delhi, Agrasen Ki baoli is open from morning 0900 hrs till evening 1700 hrs,and the entry to the baoli is free.

You can also visit  the oldest existing Baoli in Delhi, the Anangtal Baoli, located in Mehruli. The Anangtal Baoli is considered to be older than the present structure of Agrasen ki Baoli (stepwell).Also known as Yoginipura , Anangal stepwell is believed to built in the 10th century by the Rajput King Anang Pal II, belonging to the Tomar Dynasty.Anang Tal literally means reservoir of Anang.


Sunday, October 21, 2012

Eklingji and Nagda Temples

India is a country of Religion and culture. Every city in India is resplendent with Temples, Churches and mosques, which are not only a centre of religious faith but some of whom are architecturally rich and never stops in amazing one to wonder the kind of effort and inventiveness, it would have taken to build such marvelous structures with so much of limited means.The period of seventh to the tenth of century was particularly important for the Hindu temple of architecture, one some of the most beautifully sculpted temples were built in India.

Present day Udaipur region too got a fair share of such temple architecture with two beautiful temple complexes being built at Eklingji and Nagda. While there are smaller and more modern temples dedicated to Lord Shiva ( Siva) in Rajasthan, the most renowned and the oldest of them all is at Kailashpuri, near Udaipur, known as Eklingji. Eklingji got its name from the unique form of Lord Shiva as a black stone four headed god.

Eklingji Temple was built in 734 AD Mewar King Bappa Rawal at Kailashpuri ( Udaipur as a city was non existent at that point of time), Eklingji being the ruling deity of Sisodia Family of Kings who ruled Mewar Region then. Over the years additions were made and repair work carried out ( to repair the lost part, destroyed by Muslim invaders). It is now a 108 temple complex, with the main temple being dedicated to Lord Eklingji. The Eklingji temple encompasses an area of about 2500 sq. feet and is about 65 feet in height.
All temples in the complex are made of marble and granite and the main temple has an enormous double-storied, elaborately pillared hall or "mandap" under a vast pyramidal roof, with a four-faced image of Lord Shiva in black marble.  Lord Shiva is prayed in the form of Eklingji, having four faces. The four faces of the statue, depicts four Gods believed to Lord Shiva in his four forms. In the east is Surya (sun), in the west is Brahma, in the north is Vishnu and in the south is Rudra. In the center of these images is the Shivlinga, encircled by a silver snake.  The hall is embellished with a beautiful silver structure of Nandi, besides this there are two more Nandi idols in the temple, one made of black stone and the other of brass metal. 

The main temple is surrounded with other smaller temples dedicated to other different Hindu Gods including Goddess Parvati ( wife of Lord Shiva), Lord Ganesha and Lord Kartikeya ( Son's of Lord Shiva). Other temples are dedicated to Goddess Saraswati ( goddess of knowledge) and Goddess Yamuna.. The temple complex is in itself surrounded by the Rocky mountains giving it natural walls.  

Monday is the day dedicated to Lord Shiva and hence a lot of local people visit Eklingji on this day. The King of Mewar too visits Eklingji every Monday evening to pray. Mahashivratri is a great occassion for Eklingji Temple. It is celebrated with great pomp and Lord Shiva is decorated with ornaments on this day. It is considered auspicious to pray on this day. 

Just 01 kms from the Elingji Temple, another set of temples exits known as Nagda Temple. In the 6th century, Nagda was found by Nagaditya, the fourth Mewar King. Initially known as Nagahrida and the capital of Mewar, Nagda is located besides Bagela Lake about 23 kms in the north-west of Udaipur on the way to Nathdwara. Nagda comprises many small and big temples, but the main attraction is gained by its 'Sas-Bahu' temple. 

The term 'Sas-Bahu' suggests 'Mother-in-law and Daughter-in-law' respectively. The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and comprises two structures, one made by a mother-in-law and another, made by a daughter-in-law. The main entrance to the temples is through a door that has carved lintels and a multi-lobed arch in its middle. Both the temple structures are laid according to same plan having an altar, a mandapa (columned prayer hall) with projections and a porch.

The temple of Sas is comparatively larger than that of the Bahu. The 'Bahu' temple has an octagonal ceiling, adorned with beautifully carved eight intricate female figures. The 'Sas' temple has a torana (archway) in its front where, it is believed that the image of the Lord Vishnu was swung along with hymns in the praise of lord on ceremonial occasions. Both the temples are constructed on a common platform facing towards the east direction with beautiful carvings at the time displaying Gujarat style of sculpture.

The delicate carvings are acknowledged to be imbibed from the incidents of 'Ramayana' (the Indian epic).  The sculptures are made in two steps, one encircling the other. On the first step, images of Lord Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu are carved and on the other, there are images of Rama, Balarama and Parashurama.

Another temple that is a must visit is the Jain temple. Dedicated to the Jain Saint Shanti Nath, the temple is said to have been built during the rule of Rana Kumbha. The temple has a strange idol due to which the temple got its name ('Adbhut' means strange). This 09 feet high strange idol is an attraction for people. These temples were destroyed by the foreign invaders to a large extent, still  their exceptional artistic architecture is preserved.

Another striking part of the temple complex is that,most of the temples in the complex does not have any idol of any deity. In between Nagda and Eklingji, there is Patal Maheshwar temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.The temple remains 06 months submerged in the water, and for the period it is above the water, it displays beautiful architecture.

Eklingji and Nagda can be reached through a picturesque drive from Udaipur amongst some of the most beautiful hillock. It is just 22 kms 01 hrs drive from Udaipur

Tip to travel: If you are short on time, avoid travelling to Eklingji on Monday, as a lot of local visit to the temple on this day, it being.an auspicious day, dedicated to Lord Shiva - the presiding deity.


Friday, October 19, 2012

Galtaji Temple ( The Monkey Temple), Jaipur

Jaipur city of full of historic monuments, including the more celebrated Amber Fort, City Palace complex , Hawa Mahal and other imposing forts of Jaigarh and Nahargarh. But Apart from the above mentioned more celebrated monuments, Jaipur have one more interesting and charming historical piece of architecture, The Temple complex of Galta.

Situated about 10 kms from the city center of Jaipur, just off the Sisodia Rani Bagh. Nestled in a steep-sided valley, into a narrow rocky ravine.lies the 250 year Old complex of Galta. This magnificent temple  was built in the 18th century by Diwan Rao Kriparam, a courtier of Sawai Jai Singh II.The architecture of the temple is unique as it looks more like a mansion or Haveli than a traditional temple.The Temple Complex of Galta is religiously important and sacred to Hindu community as it is believed to be the Ashram of Maharishi Galab ( Galav).Legend is , Saint Galav spent all his life here and performed his 'tapasya' for 100 years. Pleased with his penance, the Gods appeared before him and blessed his place of worship with abundant water.

Galta Temple complex have seven tanks also called Holy Kunds. Out of the seven Kunds , two of them are the large reservoirs, with the upper reservoir reserved mostly for Humans and the lower tank being mainly used by hundreds of Monkey ( Red Face Macaque) present there.The most important of the Tanks among the seven tanks is Galta Kund, which is believed to be blessed with eternal supply of water and hence does not go dry. A spring of pure water flows from the 'Gaumukh', a rock shaped like a cow's head in the nearby hillock, into the tanks recharging them perennially.A dip at the Holy Kund is considered to wash your sins. Taking bath in the pool on the full moon day and especially on Makar Sankranti is considered auspicious.

There are two main temples at Galtaji, one dedicated to God Sun and the other dedicated to Lord Hanuman - the Monkey God. Built in Pink Sandstone, with beautiful round roofs (of terracotta style), exquisitely carved pillars and painted walls, it is beautifully set above the top of hill, with the sun temple being on higher altitude that the Temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman. Lord Hanuman Temple can be identified from far of, as it is always surrounded by 100's of monkeys, living peacefully.This had lead it to be called as "Monkey Temple', it was recently featured on National Geographic's multi-award winning series 'Monkey Thieves'.

The temples of Galtaji Temple Complex are intricately and brightly painted with the images of Brahma, Vishnu, Parvati and Ganesha. There are engraved stones showing scenes from religious festivals and state occasions, maharajahs playing polo, the exploits of Krishna and the gopis. The chamber, at the end of the lower pool, displays a wide array of original frescoes, depicting acrobat feats - maharajahs playing polo or Lord Krishna coquetting with 'gopis' (milkmaids) in the garden. The ceilings are embellished with colourful swirl motifs.The natural backdrop of hillocks and springs and the beautiful architecture of the temple combined with the chanting of hymns produces an atmosphere of tranquility and inner peace.Other temples you can visit in the vicinity are Krishna Temple, Surya Temple, Balaji Temple and the Sita Ram Temple.

The temple is open to visitors from sunrise to sunset, but it is best to visit in afternoon around sunset, as during this time, you will see most of the monkeys flocking around the temple and you will get to witness their varied activities from close quarter.

Galtaji can be reached by drive from Jaipur, a road just across Sisodia Rani Garden leads you right near to the temple, from where you need to just take few steps to reach the temple complex. For the adventure seekers, a 30 minutes walks across a steep hill from path beyond Suraj Pole gate on the eastern edge of the Pink City can take you to the to the Surya Mandir on the crest of the hill above the main temple complex.

Jaipur in turn is well connected to the rest of the country by road, railways and air ( Jaipur has an international airport)


Abhaneri - Home to Amazing Stepwell, Rajasthan

Water have always played an important role in deciding the fate of human settlements. In India water have played an integral part in the lives starting from Birth till the last rites are performed. Being an agrarian economy, life always revolved around the availability of water, and hence the water resources were always preserved , sometimes in novice ways. 

With a weather, where the maximum rainfall is concentrated in two months of the year, it was acutely necessary to conserve water in these two months, so that the needs for the rest of the years can be met. Stepwells also called Baori/Baoli in Hindi, Vav in Gujarati are of the indigenous way developed to conserve water in the western part of medieval India. Baori's over the time, have meant more than just a deep well which conserved water, but have been converted into beautiful monuments displaying their practical but amazingly beautiful architecture.

Most of the baoris(stepwells) acted as the lifeline of many a cities but over the years, with the westernised development and easy access to the ground waters courtesy electrified motors, these baolis became neglected and many of them died their natural death. However the remnants of some are still preserved giving an insight to the Old world architectural achievements, the most famous of the are the Agrasen Ki Baoli in Delhi, Chand Baoli at Abahneri, the Adalaj Vav in Ahmedabad, Rani Ka Vav at Patan etc, but the largest of them is Chand Baoli at Abhaneri.

Chand Baori is located in Abha Nagri or city of Brightness, now known as Abhaneri ( the result of distorted pronunciation) in Duasa district of Rajasthan, in between the two famous tourist cities of Agra and Jaipur. Located 95 kms from Jaipur, Abhaneri got its name from the fact that it was abode of Goddess Harshat Mata , who always adorned Abha, hence the name Abha Nagri. Although the village is in tatters but still the Harshat Mata Temple and The Chand Baori have survived and have turned into a great tourist attraction.

Aructebhaneri Village  is believed to be established in 9th century A.D. by Raja Chand (believed to Gurjar King Bhoja who ruled the area in 09th Century). Chand Baori (stepwell) along with Harshat Mata Temple dedicated to the Goddess of Joy - Harshat Mata was constructed in 10th century itself.Chand Baori is about 20 metres deep, contains about 3500 steps across 13 stories. The mesmerizing view of steps arranged in geometrical pattern in a pyramidal form with ever narrowing the bottom. The dance of light and shade and the geometrical pattern gives you a mesmerizing view of the Baoli. The stairs are on the three sides while on one  side of Chand baoli , there is a three storied pavilion with beautiful carved jharokhas, the galleries supported on Pillars and two projecting balconies enshrining beautiful sculptures.   

Chand Baori  is set in the Harshat Mata complex, which itself boasts of beautiful carvings of God and Goddesses. This stone temple , probably built in 09-10th century,  is dedicated to the Goddess of Joy Harshat Mata, however some people believe that it was originally dedicatd to Lord Vishnu.


How To Reach
Abhaneri is located on NH-11 or the Jaipur-Agra road about 95 kms from Jaipur. It is best connected by Road travel through the cities of Jaipur and Dausa which are 95 and 31 km from Abhaneri, respectively.

The nearest airport to Abhaneri is the Jaipur Sanganer Airport from where taxi on hire are available to take you to Abhaneri. Abhaneri is well connected by rail through Dausa railway station which has an excellent connectivity with various major cities of the state and the country.